The Importance of Doing Nothing Calmly!

"…At any given moment in time, we may just pause and do nothing… it’s just, ‘Can you learn how to be, calmly?’..."    Suzanne Clothier

We all work hard to train our Cairn Terriers, but sometimes the best thing we can do is Nothing - as long as we do it Calmly.  No commands.  Just calming body postures and maybe calm words of no consequence (something like "How about that Tom Brady?").  This brief video is part of a training by Suzanne Clothier Thresholds, Thresholds, and Doing Nothing.  She illustrates how passive positive training methods work very well when teaching a dog to feel safe in different situations.  The single most important thing any dog needs is to feel safe, and it is incumbent on us to understand what that means from the dog’s perspective.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Understanding Arousal, Anxiety, and Fear:
http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2015/08/understanding-arousal-anxiety-and-fear.html

Relationship Centered Dog Training Tips by Suzanne Clothier:

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/06/relationship-centered-dog-training.html

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Doing Nothing Calmly to Help Your Dog to Feel Safe

"…At any given moment in time, we may just pause and do nothing… it’s just, ‘Can you learn how to be, calmly?’..."    Suzanne Clothier

We all work hard to train our Cairn Terriers, but sometimes the best thing we can do is Nothing - as long as we do it Calmly.  No commands.  Just calming body postures and maybe calm words of no consequence (something like "How about that Tom Brady?").  This brief video is part of a training by Suzanne Clothier Thresholds, Thresholds, and Doing Nothing.  She illustrates how passive positive training methods work very well when teaching a dog to feel safe in different situations.  The single most important thing any dog needs is to feel safe, and it is incumbent on us to understand what that means from the dog’s perspective.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Understanding Arousal, Anxiety, and Fear:
http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2015/08/understanding-arousal-anxiety-and-fear.html

Relationship Centered Dog Training Tips by Suzanne Clothier:

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/06/relationship-centered-dog-training.html

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Understanding the Basics of Aggression in Dogs

Fear, pain, self defense... It is important for us to try and understand the context of aggressive communication.

"Very often, what is labeled as 'aggression' is actually a useful and meaningful communication meant to avoid any violence."    Suzanne Clothier

Aggression Basics

A brief look at the causes of aggression,

and how to begin sorting out what's what…

Part and parcel of canine communications are growls, snarls, snaps and even bites - even among the nicest of dogs and the mildest of breeds.  We find these behaviors frightening, and sometimes don't quite know what to do.  Unfortunately, there is a widespread misunderstanding of what constitutes aggressive behavior.  Very often, what is labeled as 'aggression' is actually a useful and meaningful communication meant to avoid any violence.  And at times, we overlook the fact that should a dog feel the need to act in a threatening way (whether to people, other dogs or other animals), there's a reason.

In my experience, dog behavior - especially that which we find frightening - is often poorly understood, leading to misunderstanding and frustration on both ends of the leash.  No matter how fearsome we may find their behavior, we can find some relief in the knowledge that dogs act aggressively for the same basic reasons we do: 

Fear (of a specific situation/person/other animal, or the fear that springs from incomplete socialization - the dog literally does not have the skills to adequately handle the dog-to-dog interactions) 

Pain (this can be quite subtle at times - a dog who is tired and/or who has physical problems can have a much shorter fuse for being bumped by or even in the presence of exuberant dogs) 

Irritation (this can vary widely from individual dog to dog; again, physical/mental fatigue can make a dog more irritable than usual) 

Anger (redirection of anger onto another dog or even the dog's handler is possible with a highly aroused and frustrated dog) 

Protection of territory (this may be the dog's home yard or a familiar practice area or even the handler's vehicle) 

Protection of family (in a sound dog, this should happen only when a serious threat is made; dogs quick to perceive a threat to the handler should be evaluated carefully - such hair trigger responses can be dangerous.) 

Self defense (perhaps the most common cause of dog-to-dog interactions) 

Protecting resources & possessions (this could be proximity to a special person, or actual resources like toys, food, crate, etc) 

Sexual conflict

Social status (excluding the odd occasional spat, resolving social conflict with aggression is a sign of inadequate socialization with other dogs) 

Hunger

NOTE: Like humans, dogs can act aggressively in abnormal ways due to biochemical imbalances, various diseases, genetic defects, psychological and/or physical abuse, drugs or chemicals, and for reasons science cannot explain. Like their human counterparts, such abnormal dogs are rare but can be extremely dangerous. 

Important Concepts in Understanding Aggression

Dunbar's Fight/Bite Ratio:  How many fights has the dog been in?  How many times has he done damage that required veterinary attention (incidental punctures on ear/head/face do not count.)  A dog who has been in 3 fights and damaged other dogs every time is a more dangerous & difficult dog than a dog who has been in 30 fights and never damaged another dog.  The Fight/Bite ratio tells you a good deal about the dog's bite inhibition. 

Much of what we call aggression is actually behavior designed to avoid real conflict.  Warning looks, growls, snarls and even threatening snaps & charges are intended to warn.  A dog who intends to connect his teeth with another dog will do so unless something physically interferes with him (length of leash, barrier, etc.) 

Handler involvement is critical:  Without meaning to, handlers can contribute to aggressive behavior in any number of ways: tight leash, holding their breath/tensing muscles, punishing the dog for acting 'aggressively,' failing to recognize signs that the dog feels pressured, failing to set clear boundaries for behavior, failing to protect the dog from other rude dogs.  One clear sign that the handler's involvement is key is this: The dog is aggressive on leash, is fine in off leash situations. 

Need for clear assessment of the situation:  Where were the dogs relative to each other?  Where were the handlers and what were they doing?  Very often, a dog is tagged as aggressive when the incident occurred while the dog was quietly laying down or sitting and simply responded to another dog who climbed onto him or invaded his space.  This is very different from the dog who actively seeks out confrontation, and will move toward another dog in order to provoke conflict.  As with any training problem, the careful trainer takes the time to clearly assess the problem before deciding on a course of action. 

ALL DOGS are capable of aggressive behavior, regardless of breed:  The world's sweetest Labrador or Golden is still 100% canine, and fully capable of the entire behavioral spectrum, including snarls, growls, snap and bites. 

Aggression that occurs in the handler's vicinity is the handler's responsibility:  Regardless of whether the problem was provoked by another dog (in which case the handler needed to protect/defend his dog) or his dog was the provocateur, handlers need to be proactive in their management of their dogs, provide clear leadership, intervene as necessary, and set clear boundaries for their dog's behavior. 

Off leash socialization through early adulthood is the best prevention for aggression problems:  While many handlers utilize puppy kindergarten classes to help socialize their young dogs, it is the adolescent dogs who actually require more work.  Generally speaking, a puppy's only real goal in life is to play, and in doing so, learn how to be a dog.  Adolescent dog, like adolescent humans, have mastered those basic skills and now must employ them on a much more serious level: Who's in charge here?  What are the rules?  Where do I fit in?  Unfortunately, during the critical months of adolescents and young adulthood, many handlers no longer permit their dogs to socialize with other dogs off lead - a time when they most need this experience.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Looking at the World Through Your Cairn's Eyes

What does your Cairn see when he looks at his world?

"…There is also a meeting point where the differences between us disappear, and we are all in balance, comfortable, in agreement, and at peace..."    Suzanne Clothier

Perspectives

Looking at the world through your dog’s eyes.

My friend Joe Steinfeld said it best: "It seems to me that the main difference between humans and other species is that we are always looking for the difference between humans and other species."

Life at the farm is shared with many different species, which means on any given day, we're considering life from many perspectives.  We’re hot and sweaty?  The parrot and the tortoises are enjoying the perfect weather.  We need jackets?  Our Scottish Highland cattle are delightedly kicking up their heels in the brisk air.

Viewed through the perspective of our animals, how different life looks, feels, smells - and is.  We seek to understand the differences so that we can minimize our animals' stress, and maximize their comfort and joy.  It stretches us, this daily need to consider how others view their world.

But there is also a meeting point where the differences between us disappear, and we are all in balance, comfortable, in agreement and at peace.  This is the place we seek daily:  Where we are together in a life shared, despite the differences.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Teaching Your Cairn Self Control

"Teaching your dog self control is the foundation for all other learning...  Self control must be taught, just as you teach him to sit or speak or come when called."    Suzanne Clothier

Guidelines for Teaching Self Control

Does your dog pull on lead when someone approaches?  When he sees another dog? If joggers run by?  If children are playing?  If a cat or squirrel dash through the yard?  Is he hard to control at the vet's or groomer's?  When people come into your house?

If the answer to any of these questions is “Yes”, chances are your dog needs to learn self control.  Just as children must learn to control their impulses before they can mature into responsible adults, dogs must learn self control before they can become well mannered canine citizens.  Self control must be taught, just as you teach him to sit or speak or come when called.

Every owner can teach his dog self control by following these guidelines: 

Train, don't restrain. Taking a firm grip on the leash and collar teaches the dog nothing except that you can restrain him.  Instead, give a simple command, such as “Sit”, reminding with the lead if needed, then loosen the lead so there is no tension at all.  If the dog breaks position, quietly and slowly reposition him, and loosen the lead again. 

Ask for compliance, not submission.  View working with your dog as you would working with any friend.  Avoid creating a struggle by asking the dog for more than he can do at the time.  For example, if your dog is really excited, he may be unable or unwilling to lay down, but agreeable to sitting quietly with a few reminders from you.  Compromise and be reasonable - most struggles between dog and owner are created when the owner attempts to dominate the dog, instead of finding a solution acceptable to both owner and dog. 

Remember the dog does not know what his options are.  A dog who is lacking self control simply does not know that it is possible to sit quietly in the face of distractions.  It is the owner's responsibility to show the dog that he has options other than lunging, pulling or leaping around. 

Move slowly and talk quietly.  A dog who is highly excited needs calm, slow handling.  A common mistake owners make is to move quickly, grabbing at the leash and collar, raising their voice and speaking in short, sharp tones.  From the dog's point of view, the owner appears as excited as they are, and short sharp tones often sound like barking.  Instead of calming the dog, this reinforces his excitement.  By moving slowly and talking quietly, the owner sends a clear message to the dog that he is not excited and is in control of the situation. 

Remind and ask, don't demand.  A dog who is already excited is likely to resist a harsh correction or respond by becoming more excited.  "Ask" by using the lightest possible touch on the leash and collar, and remind the dog what he's doing each time he forgets and shifts position. 

Work on teaching self control in all situations.  Begin by working in distraction free areas, and ask your dog to sit on a loose leash for five minutes.  Gradually move on to more exciting situations, and practice often.  Work at home, at friends' homes, in parks, shopping centers, at dog shows, training classes and the veterinarian's.  As your dog's self control and respect for you increases, you can add laying down quietly for up to 30 minutes to his skills.

For more information, we recommend the Flying Dog Press booklet - Understanding & Teaching Self Control.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More TrainingTips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Eliminating On-lead Aggression with Your Cairn

Calmly changing the dog’s body position to “Sit!” or “Down!” and relaxing the tension on the lead will change the dog’s emotional state and help avoid conflict.  A timely distraction like “Look at me!” with great treats in the offing will help desensitize your dog to triggers.

"…On leash aggression always involves unintentional signals from the owner which create a vicious cycle..."    Suzanne Clothier

Handling On-lead Aggression

A common behavior problem, on-lead aggression involves the handler & unintentional training.  Here's how to resolve the problem without using aggression of your own. 

Perhaps one of the most embarrassing behavior problems is a dog who acts aggressively on leash, whether towards dogs, other animals or people.  Often these dogs do not exhibit any aggression when off leash.  Though puzzling to owners, the difference between off leash and on leash behavior offers a clue to the problem as well as the solution.  Recognize that on leash aggression always involves unintentional signals from the owner which create a vicious cycle.  Here's how:

At some point, usually in adolescence, the dog growls, barks, lunges at or snaps at a dog or person.  The owner is surprised and embarrassed, and not sure what to do.  If not handled correctly, the dog may persist in this behavior and get worse over time.

Understandably, the owner begins to anticipate any situation which might trigger this behavior.  Spotting an approaching dog or person before the dog does, the owner tightens up on the leash so he can control the dog better, stiffens his own body posture and holds his breath.  The dog notices the change in the leash tension, the owner's body posture and breathing, and begins looking to see what has the owner so worried, and once he spots it, begins his aggressive behavior. 

Did you know that the first step in attack training is to give the dog something or someone he wants to get to, while using a tight lead and tense body posture to excite the dog into a more aggressive state?  In the case of on leash aggression, the owner actually makes the situation worse without meaning to, and the dog simply responds to signals received from the owner.

What can you do to solve the problem?  Here's the basics: 

Train!  Take the time to teach your dog self control and basic obedience commands which you can reinforce, and praise his good behavior. 

Be alert to the earliest signs.  No dog spends his entire life in an aggressive state.  Learn what body language your dog exhibits when he is calm and relaxed, and what changes occur as he moves into a more aggressive mood.  Watch for changes in ears, head and neck carriage, eye shape and expression, mouth and whisker changes, tail carriage and overall posture.  Intervention at the first sign of a problem is more successful than trying to deal with the full blown aggression.

Redirect the dog's attention.  By giving a command he knows in a cheerful, upbeat tone, you can redirect the dog's attention back to working with you.  If possible, change direction and move away from the situation - the dog cannot walk briskly with you and be aggressive at the same time. 

Change the body posture, change the emotional state.  Body language is nothing more than an external expression of an internal state.  It is possible to change an emotional state by changing body posture and vice versa.  This is why the advice to "Stand up straight, smile and you'll feel better" actually works!  In the case of aggression, imagine how hard it would be to be angry if you were sitting in a comfortable chair with your face and head relaxed. 

With a dog, you can physically change the body posture, and thus shift the emotional state, by simply asking the dog to sit (a neutral, non-aggressive position) and using your hands to stroke ears, mouth, head and hackles back to a more relaxed position.  This is not petting, and you are not trying to reassure the dog.  Concentrate on changing the body posture using firm strokes of your hands at the same time you insist the dog sit quietly with no tension on the leash.  This very simple technique is amazingly effective. 

Be aware of your breathing and body posture.  Since we tend to hold our breath and thus tense our muscles when nervous (facts that do not escape the dog), it is important to breathe in a more normal fashion.  The easiest way is to either sing or tell the dog a fairy tale, such as Goldilocks and the Three Bears.  While this sounds silly, the very silliness keeps you calm and relaxed.  How uptight can you get talking about a blonde and three bears in the woods?

Keep the leash loose.  Remember tension on the leash encourages aggressive behavior.  Put the dog under a command, like "sit", using the leash if needed to help him, but then immediately loosen all tension on the leash.  This does NOT mean to give the dog the full freedom of his leash - keep your hand on the leash in such a way so that if needed you can quickly control him, but do not have any tension on the leash.  If the dog breaks position, quietly remind him what he was asked to do, and reposition him. 

Learn the difference between aggression and an appropriate response to rudeness.  Far too many dogs are labeled aggressive when in fact they are responding in a perfectly appropriate canine fashion to rudeness.  This usually occurs with others dogs whose owners allow them to be very rude because they believe that their dog is simply saying "hello" to your dog.  What is really happening is a canine version of a complete stranger rushing up to you and hugging & kissing you!  If you verbally snapped at such a person and pushed him away, you would be well within your rights, and not considered aggressive.  Don't let your dog be rude, and try to protect him from well meaning but uninformed owners who allow their dogs to be rude.  (For more information on this, please read our article "He Just Wants to Say HI!") 

Shouting doesn't equal murder!  Very few canine arguments result in any serious injuries.  Though it is scary when dogs snap, growl and bark, remember that dog behavior is mostly posturing and threats designed to avoid real conflict.  Just as you may raise your voice when upset to warn someone that you are angry, this does not mean you will escalate to real violence.  Your dog uses his body language and vocalizations in the same way.  Should a physical conflict arise, most dogs have bite inhibition and rarely inflict any serious damage.  Knowing this allows you to stay calmer, and not imagine the worst! 

To learn more, see the Flying Dog Press booklets Body Posture & Emotions, Finding A Balance, The Seven C's and Understanding & Teaching Self Control.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Rescue and the Habit of Excellence

Among the many gifts dogs bring to our lives, one of the greatest is the opportunity to continually be our best selves.

"Dog training is a lot like life.  There is no simple recipe, no formula that if we just apply it correctly, we will be assured of good results."   Suzanne Clothier

"We are what we repeatedly do.  Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit."    Aristotle

The Habit of Excellence

 by Suzanne Clothier

I admire excellence in any field, whether the excellence is shown in amazing cakes or hand-painted silk jackets, in being able to fix almost anything mechanical (thank you, dear husband, for possessing that particular excellence!), in creating music that sings in my heart long after the final notes have faded from my ears.  I have been privileged to watch many trainers who could create an agreement between themselves and a dog that was rich with nuance and harmony.

Whatever the particular field or pursuit, what sets these people apart from others who would also bake a cake or play music or train a dog or repair the broken is this: their passion for excellence, for doing their best, always.  It is the belief that excellence can always be improved upon.  Those in pursuit of excellence know that learning never stops, and that ever deeper understanding is available even to an "expert" if curiosity and self-analysis are an on-going part of the process.

There are times when our best of the moment is not the best that may be possible.  Everyone I know who has achieved a high level of excellence has come to grips with this, and learned how to accept it, and yet not allow that concept to limit them.  A fine line lies between being unrealistically critical of our own efforts and recognizing when we have done our authentic best in that moment even if it is not exactly what we intended.  Our intentions can drive excellence if we are willing to practice in so many ways that allow our skills to match our intentions.

Dog training is a lot like life.  There is no simple recipe, no formula that if we just apply it correctly, we will be assured of good results.  Chemistry, math, physics, mechanics - all offer satisfying ways to get it right over and over if we are careful and thorough (and if we truly understand the many variables at work). But like art and medicine, dog training is an inexact science, no matter how diligently we try to apply the formulas of operant conditioning and learning theory.  Live animals in dynamic bodies and minds make dog training an art which science can assist, but all the science in the world cannot create that ineffable connection we seek with our animals.

As people trying to understand and live with and train dogs and other animals, we remain practitioners, always practicing, always in pursuit of excellence.  Excellence is achievable in any given moment, but it is not a destination.  It is a journey of a lifetime, where each step offers us the chance to practice the excellence of that place and time.

When I found this quote from Aristotle, I thought it would be an ideal poster for any training school (or any home, kitchen, office, barn, bowling alley, cupcake bakery, etc!):

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit."

Practice the habit of excellence.  Among the many gifts dogs bring to our lives, one of the greatest is the opportunity to continually be our best selves.

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More TrainingTips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Keeping the Relationship Central with Your Cairn

Developing a healthy, loving, respectful relationship must be central to all of our actions and choices involving our Cairns.

"…Solid training skills are actually solid communication skills, and clear communication is critical to a healthy relationship."    Suzanne Clothier

Relationship Centered Training

Key points of keeping the relationship

central to all you do with your dog.

When your approach to training is "relationship based" this means the relationship is always the central & key point of all you do.  At every step, you ask yourself how your goals & actions fit into a healthy, loving relationship, and how any of your choices & actions may affect the relationship between you and your dog.  Offered here are key points that I teach in my seminars, many of which are described in much greater detail in my book, "Bones Would Rain from the Sky: Deepening Our Relationships With Dogs" (Warner, 2002).

Key Points:

Connection - How much connection do you want?   Need?  Can offer the dog?  You can't give scattered attention, or accept disconnection, and then complain because your dog isn't deeply connected!  Connection must be practiced continually.  Easiest way is to have a 'crush' on your dog - maintain a heightened awareness of where he is and what he's doing when he's with you, and be super sensitive to any shifts in his mood or posture.  Make connecting with you worthwhile.  Be available to the dog with your energy, your smile, your touch, interactions and rewards.

Commitment - Want 100%?  Give 100%!  If problems are due to your limits, skill level, or challenges as a handler, don't expect your dog to compensate for you.  Work on yourself outside of dog training time to become a worthy partner who gives 100%, even under stress.

Empathy - Step into their umwelt*.  Use the 'magic microphone' to interview the dog and get his perspective on the situation.  It may be helpful to have a friend play your role while you play your dog's role.  Think like a dog, meaning draw straight lines from one thing to another; no rationalizations permitted!  Try to be the dog in any given situation & guess at how it may be affecting him.  He'll tell you if you've gotten it right, then adjust your behavior accordingly - the 'right' interpretation & solution will result in an improvement in the dog's response.

Understand That Dog's Behavior = Dog's Best Guess - Know that in any given situation, the dog's behavior tells you what his best guess is as to how to handle the situation.  If you don't like his best guess, it's up to you to find a way to help him find another response.  If you hear yourself saying 'he knows better,' then consider that if that is true, why would he not do it?  He has a reason!

Orchestration - Set the dog up to succeed by considering, evaluating, assessing any given situation, identify possible problems in the situation for your dog, plan how you'll manage or avoid the problems, and remain alert.  Trust in the dog's response in any given situation is possible only when the dog actually has the skills to deal with that situation.  Hoping the dog will handle it well may be a very bad choice.  Here's a terrific goal to set for each outing with your dog: To have it end with all involved feeling good about themselves, about you, about the situation and looking forward to more.  At the very least, plan to exit any situation with your dog feeling as good as possible about what just happened.

Leadership - Earn the respect.  This begins at home.  In this seminar, you can begin rewarding the dog for voluntarily checking in with you - make it worth his while to do so! (See my article on Leadership Basics.)

Respect for Limits & Preferences - Your world is NOT your dog's world.  Your dog may find chasing squirrels more fun than what you'd prefer he do.  A compromise may be possible, but be extremely fair about what you ask from the dog - he is not a volunteer, he's a draftee.

Observation - Really seeing someone else - human or animal - is a sacred act of love.  Bring your attention very deliberately to seeing your dog as if for the first time, as if you had never met him before.  Can you see your dog with clear eyes?  Touch him with your eyes closed?  Smell him?  Listen to him?  Take your dog for a walk, and look closely at what he finds fascinating.  Is he using his nose?  His eyes?  Sense of touch?  Really look at the phone pole he finds intriguing (sniff it if you dare!  It won't kill you.)  Go poke around in the leaves or dirt or grass with him.  Share his interest.  (It's worth it just for the look on your dog's face!)

Response to Response (feedback loop) - Are you really listening to what your dog has to say & really seeing his behavior & body language clearly?  Sometimes, we are so busy looking for what we expect/hope to see that block ourselves from seeing what the dog offers us in response.

Clarity of Intent - What is your motivation?  Is your ego involved?  Is your enjoyment shared by the dog?  Are you trying to prove something to yourself?  To others?  To please someone?  To reach a goal because it will make you look good?  Be careful saying that something is for the dog's good - ask him if that's true!  Be clear about what you expect or want from your dog and why it's so important to you.

Technical Toolbox - Understanding training principles & applying them with skill is important - love alone isn't enough.  Don't drown in technical know-how and forget the heart & soul of the relationship, but also don’t sacrifice good technique for pure emotional involvement.  Balance is important, and technical proficiency can help smooth the way for the kind of profound relationship you want.  Remember, solid training skills are actually solid communication skills, and clear communication is critical to a healthy relationship.

Forgiveness - Be forgiving with yourself & dog; all relationships include mistakes - learn from them, don't repeat them!

Detachment - It's not all about you!  The dog has his own world, his own interests, his own fears or struggles or challenges, his own limitations, his own delights and passions.  Don't take it all so personally when you don't get what you want from the dog.

Generosity - When offering rewards, do it while having a party you'd want to attend!  The dog will tell you if the pay off is worth it to him.  Do not mistake cookie dispensing as generosity.  How many ways can you generously invest yourself in interacting with the dogs?  How much can you achieve without any cookies at all?  Remember, dogs don't run around popping hot dogs at each other.  They invest themselves in the interactions.  Food rewards are great backups, and certainly valuable when trying to make a behavior worthwhile to a dog who might prefer to do something else.  Some stuff is just plain old work, to us and to the dogs; no one has to pay us or our dogs to do that which we are passionate about.

Stretch - Give more than you usually do, even if that means being silly or dramatic for your dog - forget what others around you might think.  It's what your dog thinks that matters!  Remember the farmer in the movie Babe?  When his pig is sick and possibly dying, the usually quiet farmer who had little to say stretched himself to the utmost, singing and dancing for the pig - And it worked!

Cooperation Weighs Nothing - Weight & strength are meaningless when an animal or person cooperates with you; weight & strength are only important when you need to forcibly restrain the dog, or try to force his cooperation or compliance using equipment like leashes, collars, head halters, harnesses.  If you are aware of your dog's strength being used against you, know that this is a sign that something is amiss - he's working against you, not with you.  Could be that in that particular moment, you simply have to hang on, restrain, manage, do what has to be done to keep all safe.  But once the moment has passed, carefully evaluate what happened, why, and what needs to be done in the future.

Buck Naked Training - A relationship based approach does not rely solely on equipment or treats but will work even if you're buck naked on a mountain top in Tibet with your dog.  The relationship is always with you, and the connection possible between us and our dogs is powerful.  Strive for it!

*Umwelt:  The "biological foundations that lie at the very epicenter of the study of both communication and signification in the human [and non-human] animal."

"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Understanding and Managing Resource Guarding

Resource Guarding is a natural instinct, brought on by anxiety, especially in a dog who is under-confident about other things in his life.  The very best course of action is to avoid situations that threaten the dog and its possessions.  Allow your dog to chew in peace when appropriate and never try and take the toy away except as part of a positive exchange.

Resource Guarding

What is resource guarding?

Resource guarding (RG) is when a dog has possession of an object that he/she thinks is valuable, and is growling/snapping/biting in an effort to protect/keep that object.  

The object may be something we deem silly, for example, a piece of Kleenex is a common object dogs guard...or even empty bowls.  Some dogs will even guard spots, like a bed or couch.  And in few, rarer cases dogs will see their owner is a resource and guard that person.

 
Why does my dog do this?

Generally speaking, RG is a genetic, inborn behavior.  This behavior evolved because in the wild, possession of something is important, and not allowing that thing to be stolen is a matter of life and death.  Many dogs retain this behavior, despite there being ample resources.  Just like hunting, playing, and mating, RG is a survival skill built into the dog.

In some cases, RG can be learned.  This happens most often when a bored dog starts to chew objects.  The owner approaches and removes the object, often times scolding the dog.  Unfortunately, this only teaches the dog to steal/chew objects out of the owner’s sight to avoid punishment, and/OR it will teach him that he needs to protect the object from the owner, as he sees the owner as a thief.

 
Things like anxiety, being in a new home, or the addition of another dog or pet can increase these behaviors, or cause them to appear seemingly spontaneously.  Dogs that are under-confident in other aspects of their lives tend to be guarders.

This puppy is at the first level of warning, freezing in place and giving a hard stare, his paw on his toy, because his Alpha sister is standing right there, ready to jump in and grab his special toy.  Know the signs so you can avoid trouble!  The timely distraction of a training session, with “sits” and “downs” and great treats, avoided further escalation in this case.

What’s with all the biting, snapping, growling?

These behaviors are part of the dogs hierarchy of warnings.  The warnings play out like this:

• Freezing in place/hard staring

• Placing face against the object, putting more paws on the object

• Lip lifting

• Growling

• Warning/air snapping (these will not make contact)

• Warning snaps with contact (does not break skin)

• Biting that breaks skin

• Full attack fight that must be broken up.

Generally speaking, most dogs will travel up the hierarchy, over time, giving stronger and stronger warnings, until they finally end up biting or attacking.  Now, how hard the dog bites, depends on his learned bite inhibition.  Bite inhibition is learned as a puppy from littermates, and from his owners when he comes home.  If a dog has good bite inhibition, he will be very restrained in his bites, if he has poor control, he may bite very hard, and sooner than a dog with better control.

Some dogs go up this hierarchy, gradually, over time.  For example a dog being pestered by another dog while he eats may progress over weeks or months until they finally fight, but other dogs may go up the warning hierarchy VERY quickly - so quickly that they run through all the signals in a blink of an eye.  These are the types of dogs that many people site as “biting without warning".  What actually is happening is perhaps the owner did not see the signals, or chose to ignore or punish the lower level signals.

The point being, dogs do not want to attack over their object, they want to do everything possible to keep their object, but without causing harm, this is ritualized aggression.  Its when the issue is pushed (for example a human that continues to take objects away despite warnings, or another dog that continues to bully the RG) the dog's behavior can, and usually does, escalate.

 
Should I use corrections to stop this?

Isn't my dog trying to dominant me?

Dogs that RG are not trying to climb a social ladder, or overthrow the humans as the "leader".  In fact, these are the dogs in the household with confidence or anxiety issues. These are dogs that are, in a sense, "paranoid" that everyone is out to get their "valued thing".  Confident dogs do not feel the need to RG most objects, as they are positive no one is even going to try to take their stuff.

 
However, most "normal" dogs, with average to high confidence, may guard something of very high value - like a piece of raw meat, a new toy, etc. - when the dog doesn't normally get to have those things.  It is the abnormally high value of the object that elicits the behavior.

 
Strangers can also create the behavior.  A dog that would never RG from the family may snap at a guest, the anxiety from not knowing the person as well triggers the behavior.  Or, in the case of a party or gathering at the house, the dog may simply be over-stimulated.

Corrections for this behavior, such as yelling at the dog, making hissing sounds, physically punishing the dog, poking him, or removing the object as punishment are all methods with a very high likelihood of backfiring, plus making the behavior worse.  Since this is often anxiety based, punishment will only increase anxiety, and also damage your relationship with your dog.  It puts you two in conflict every time he finds an object he likes.

What should I do first?

First, we want to manage (prevent) the behavior as much as possible.  Pick up your clothes and things, remove dog toys and treats from the floor, moving and covering trashcans, and so forth.  Use x-pens and baby gates to keep your dog out of areas where he is going to find objects to guard.

 
The reason this is so important is that every time the dog practices the behavior, it is becoming more and more ingrained.  Preventing it helps keep the dog at the level he/she is already at, while you implement training.  If the dog guards food/food bowls, feed him separately from other dogs, preferably in his own room or crate.

 
For dogs that guard food bowls/food management:

 
If the dog is being aggressive with humans, one of the best things you can start is hand-feeding ALL meals.  Many dogs do not make the connection that food comes from YOU, and instead think it magically appears in their magic bowl (hence guarding an empty bowl).

 
Couch/bed guarding management:

Attaching a short leash to help guide the dog off the spot will work in an emergency, but placing cardboard boxes or other objects on the surface that discourage usage is preferred.  Also remember to close doors or use baby gates to keep the dog away from the surface they guard.

Make sure to discuss the management plan with all family members so that everyone is on board and there is a better chance of success.

Ok, so I am preventing the behavior, can I start training now?

Yes, but first...

All this training advice is meant as a guideline.  Different dogs will progress at different rates due to temperament, history, environment, handler skill, and so forth.  It is very important to understand that RG takes a decent amount of time to "fix" with most dogs, and the training will have to be repeated, from the beginning, with all other family members to ensure the dog has generalized the behavior.  Patience is key.

Also, if your dog is breaking skin, you are otherwise afraid or intimidated by your dog, or you in any way feel you may be harmed (dog size is a factor to consider), then its time to hire a professional to help you.  Keep in mind, most trainers are not experienced in aggression cases and will not take them on.  Also be aware that many of the trainers that agree to take on aggression cases may not be truly qualified to do so.  Your best bet is to select your trainer very wisely or hire a good behaviorist, in either case, one who understands and practices Relationship Based Training.

Read About Relationship Based Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Watch a Great Video about Relationship Based Training Tips by Zak George:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33mLzcOU5wM