Showing posts with label Basic Dog Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Basic Dog Training. Show all posts

Thursday, January 1, 2015

10 Basic Rules to Teach More Desirable Behavior

“Control the dog and you control the situation.”  CP Frito  and WiiGii show how important it is to have a good lead and harness for training.

"Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly."    Suzanne Clothier

10 Tips for Problem Behavior

10 Basic Rules that will Help You Teach Your Dog More Desirable Behavior

At one time or another, every owner has to deal with problem behavior.  Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly.

Here are some basic guidelines that apply to nearly all problem situations:

Control the dog and you control the situation.  By putting on a training collar and lead, you can control the dog.  For many dogs, their training equipment means business, not playtime, and this can help in a problem situation.  A dog who is on lead cannot run away or chase people or other animals, and his owner has a chance to help him understand what he should do by guiding him with the leash and collar.

Be positive.  Instead of saying "NO", try giving your dog something positive that he can do for you, such as "Sit", or "Heel".  This positive approach means you can praise generously for his good actions, instead of simply yelling at him. For example, a dog who jumps up can be told to sit, and helped if necessary, then praised for sitting.

Allow a dog to be a dog. Often, what owners consider problem behavior is simply normal dog behavior that they find unpleasant or annoying. For example, digging is a natural canine activity but distressing to a garden proud owner. Instead of scolding for what comes naturally, it might be kinder to set up an area in which you have buried small treats to make it more attractive than the rest of the yard, and praising your dog for digging in "his" garden.  Whenever natural behaviors conflict with what you might like, be creative and see if you can find an outlet for those interests and activities that is suitable for you both.

Be consistent.  It is unfair to the dog to change your rules depending on what you're wearing, who's visiting, or the kind of day you've had.  If your dog is allowed on the furniture, he will be confused when you yell at him because Aunt Bess is visiting and she doesn't think dogs should sit in chairs!  If he's allowed to jump up when you're wearing jeans and a sweatshirt, don't be surprised if he can't tell the difference between that and your best evening gown.  Whatever your rules are, keep them consistent.

Have your dog earn what he wants.  While everyone needs a few freebies now and then, your dog will not think you are a wonderful owner if you play with him, walk him, feed him, and pet him whenever he demands it.  In fact, this often creates problems since from the dog's point of view an owner who can be "trained" this well is not one who deserves much respect.  Teach your dog to say "please" by sitting, laying down, or following some other command before he gets what he wants.

Be clear.  Owners often confuse dogs by changing the words or commands, repeating them over and over again, without showing the dog what is meant, and worst of all, assuming that the dog understands.  When in doubt, gently show your dog physically exactly what you mean, giving the command at the same time so that he can associate the two.  Use clear, matter of fact commands when addressing your dog, and be sure that your praising tone is excited, enthusiastic and upbeat.  Remember that while we use words to communicate, dogs are masters of reading body language.  If your body language tells the dog one thing, but your voice tells the dog something else, chances are he will believe your body language.  This is why people who bend towards their dog and shake a finger at them while scolding "No, no, no" often receive a playful bark - their body posture is much more like a dog inviting play than a dog who is annoyed or angry.

Exercise, exercise, exercise!  The most common cause of problem behavior is boredom and a lack of sufficient exercise.  While you work or go out, your dog has little or nothing to do, and his need to exercise will not go away.  A familiar yard or house is boring, and few dogs exercise on their own without interaction with their owners.  Take the time to play with your dog, jog with him, walk in the woods, swim or take long brisk walks each day.  A tired dog is always a well behaved dog!

Provide mental stimulation.  Dr. Roger Abrante's suggestions regarding using 1/3 of your dog's diet for treats to be earned during training, 1/3 to be given as usual in a food bowl, and 1/3 to be "hunted" (try a Buster Cube, an ingenious toy which the dog must persistently work with to receive a few kibble at a time. Even a border collie will be amused by this for hours! Buster Cubes are available from your local pet store or [online].)  This "home alone" 1/3-1/3-1/3 program helps your dog expend some energy and provides much needed stimulation.

Understand your dog's genetic heritage. Whether you own a Doberman or a Beagle, a Samoyed or a Westie, it is important to understand what your dog was bred to do.  Owners often forget that the behavior that prompts a dog to run or stay close, hunt or guard, chase and kill or herd, work with people or work independently are all the result of generations of carefully selected traits.  Research your breed's history, and talk to people who understand your breed's characteristics.  You may find that Rover's tendencies, while annoying or amusing, are precisely what makes him what he is.  You can then decide how best to work with your dog's instincts and where you need to concentrate training efforts.

Train your dog.  Every dog should have basic manners, but dogs are not born knowing how to behave.  Take the time to train your dog on a consistent basis using kind, positive methods.  Find a class near you whose methods and philosophies you like.  If faced with a behavior problem you can't solve, ask people you trust for a recommendation of an experienced trainer and get professional help fast.  The sooner you begin working on a problem the sooner you will have it solved.


"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

Buster Food Cube







Thursday, July 17, 2014

Simple Training Tips for your Rescued Cairn!

Contributed by Col. Potter Volunteers

Toto learned many lessons along the Yellow Brick Road!
Follow the Yellow Brick Road!
Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  Following are some of the great tips we have to offer to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, and you'll be happy to know that some of this advice will also will apply to your current resident dogs! 

Basic Training Tips for Rescued Cairns

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

It’s Always Best to Start at the Beginning!

There’s No Place Like Home!

Easy Housetraining Tips!



Look at Me!
Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

Ticks, Lyme Disease, and Aggression

Thank You for opening your heart and home to a Rescued Cairn!

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world,
but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn







Thursday, May 22, 2014

No Problem! 10 Training Tips that Work!

“Control the dog and you control the situation.”  CP Roxanne shows how important it is to have a good lead and harness for training.
"Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly."    Suzanne Clothier

10 Tips for Problem Behavior

10 Basic Rules that will Help You Teach Your Dog More Desirable Behavior

At one time or another, every owner has to deal with problem behavior.  Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly.

Here are some basic guidelines that apply to nearly all problem situations:

Control the dog and you control the situation.  By putting on a training collar and lead, you can control the dog.  For many dogs, their training equipment means business, not playtime, and this can help in a problem situation.  A dog who is on lead cannot run away or chase people or other animals, and his owner has a chance to help him understand what he should do by guiding him with the leash and collar.

Be positive.  Instead of saying "NO", try giving your dog something positive that he can do for you, such as "Sit", or "Heel".  This positive approach means you can praise generously for his good actions, instead of simply yelling at him. For example, a dog who jumps up can be told to sit, and helped if necessary, then praised for sitting.

Allow a dog to be a dog. Often, what owners consider problem behavior is simply normal dog behavior that they find unpleasant or annoying. For example, digging is a natural canine activity but distressing to a garden proud owner. Instead of scolding for what comes naturally, it might be kinder to set up an area in which you have buried small treats to make it more attractive than the rest of the yard, and praising your dog for digging in "his" garden.  Whenever natural behaviors conflict with what you might like, be creative and see if you can find an outlet for those interests and activities that is suitable for you both.

Be consistent.  It is unfair to the dog to change your rules depending on what you're wearing, who's visiting, or the kind of day you've had.  If your dog is allowed on the furniture, he will be confused when you yell at him because Aunt Bess is visiting and she doesn't think dogs should sit in chairs!  If he's allowed to jump up when you're wearing jeans and a sweatshirt, don't be surprised if he can't tell the difference between that and your best evening gown.  Whatever your rules are, keep them consistent.

Have your dog earn what he wants.  While everyone needs a few freebies now and then, your dog will not think you are a wonderful owner if you play with him, walk him, feed him, and pet him whenever he demands it.  In fact, this often creates problems since from the dog's point of view an owner who can be "trained" this well is not one who deserves much respect.  Teach your dog to say "please" by sitting, laying down, or following some other command before he gets what he wants.

Be clear.  Owners often confuse dogs by changing the words or commands, repeating them over and over again, without showing the dog what is meant, and worst of all, assuming that the dog understands.  When in doubt, gently show your dog physically exactly what you mean, giving the command at the same time so that he can associate the two.  Use clear, matter of fact commands when addressing your dog, and be sure that your praising tone is excited, enthusiastic and upbeat.  Remember that while we use words to communicate, dogs are masters of reading body language.  If your body language tells the dog one thing, but your voice tells the dog something else, chances are he will believe your body language.  This is why people who bend towards their dog and shake a finger at them while scolding "No, no, no" often receive a playful bark - their body posture is much more like a dog inviting play than a dog who is annoyed or angry.

Exercise, exercise, exercise!  The most common cause of problem behavior is boredom and a lack of sufficient exercise.  While you work or go out, your dog has little or nothing to do, and his need to exercise will not go away.  A familiar yard or house is boring, and few dogs exercise on their own without interaction with their owners.  Take the time to play with your dog, jog with him, walk in the woods, swim or take long brisk walks each day.  A tired dog is always a well behaved dog!

Provide mental stimulation.  Dr. Roger Abrante's suggestions regarding using 1/3 of your dog's diet for treats to be earned during training, 1/3 to be given as usual in a food bowl, and 1/3 to be "hunted" (try a Buster Cube, an ingenious toy which the dog must persistently work with to receive a few kibble at a time. Even a border collie will be amused by this for hours! Buster Cubes are available from your local pet store or [online].)  This "home alone" 1/3-1/3-1/3 program helps your dog expend some energy and provides much needed stimulation.

Understand your dog's genetic heritage. Whether you own a Doberman or a Beagle, a Samoyed or a Westie, it is important to understand what your dog was bred to do.  Owners often forget that the behavior that prompts a dog to run or stay close, hunt or guard, chase and kill or herd, work with people or work independently are all the result of generations of carefully selected traits.  Research your breed's history, and talk to people who understand your breed's characteristics.  You may find that Rover's tendencies, while annoying or amusing, are precisely what makes him what he is.  You can then decide how best to work with your dog's instincts and where you need to concentrate training efforts.

Train your dog.  Every dog should have basic manners, but dogs are not born knowing how to behave.  Take the time to train your dog on a consistent basis using kind, positive methods.  Find a class near you whose methods and philosophies you like.  If faced with a behavior problem you can't solve, ask people you trust for a recommendation of an experienced trainer and get professional help fast.  The sooner you begin working on a problem the sooner you will have it solved.


"Copyright © 2013 by Suzanne Clothier. Used by permission of Suzanne Clothier. All rights reserved. For more information about Suzanne please visit SuzanneClothier.com"

Read More Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

Buster Food Cube







Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Ticks, Lyme Disease, and Aggression

Contributed by a CP Volunteer

Thinking Ahead About Spring!


It snowed again today, but we have, after all, Sprung Ahead so Spring will surely actually be here before we know it!  Now is the time to start thinking about keeping your best friends safe from the host of diseases carried by the insidious little tick.  Planning ahead - before the grass starts to grow - might be the best approach to a more enjoyable Spring, Summer, and Fall with your dog!

First, look around your yard for areas that need to be tidied up.  Ticks like tall grasses, low bushes, and yard debris, so identify any areas of concern. 

  • Cut your grass short and plan to keep it short.  There are fabulous new dwarf grasses you might consider introducing to your lawn to help in this regard and eventually reduce the work.

  • If possible, create a 6-foot wide edge between your active lawn and any taller grass, plants, or bushes.  Cedar mulch is great, except if you have a dog that likes to nibble on yard materials.  Better to use stone or a concrete walk.  Ticks may be in the taller grass, but they will not cross a barrier of this nature.

  • Purchase food quality Diatomaceous Earth (DE) and sprinkle it around the perimeter and all over your yard, in the gardens, and along the foundation of your home.  DE is a powdery substance made from tiny fossilized water plants. The tiny particles have sharp edges that cut and destroy flea eggs, dry out adult insects' protective outer coating, and shred their insides if ingested.  It is very effective in ridding your yard of ticks!  Treating your yard with DE is an excellent preventative measure and can be done once or twice annually, depending on several environmental variables.  Just be sure to use food grade DE.

  • Look for natural products to kill or ward off fleas and ticks, but always keep in mind the safety of your dog when using any pesticide, natural or otherwise.

Seems like a lot of bother, but it is well worth it.

Lyme disease is a horrible disease spread by ticks, causing widespread joint and tissue pain and more.  Worse than that, it can seemingly cause an otherwise wonderful little dog to become a raging, aggressive monster, with no rhyme or reason.  If the Lyme Disease is undetected, the dog will very likely be destroyed when the proper course of antibiotics would have cleared the problem completely.

If you do find that your dog has somehow contracted Lyme disease, it is very important to get it treated aggressively.  Doxycycline should be given for a period of 8 weeks, at twice the recommended level, and a C6 Quantative Analysis by Idexx should be done at the time the Lyme is diagnosed, and then again six months after treatment to see if the levels of antibodies go down by at least 50%.

If not, the dog should be treated again, same as above.  Lyme disease is a serious disease and should be treated aggressively.  Treating as recommended in the Merck manual may leave an animal partially cured, but with enough antibodies in their blood that it can recur, which is then called a "flare-up".  Each time a flare-up occurs, it is harder to stop or contain it.  

The vets on the Tick list recommend the dog be treated with doxy at twice the rate in the Merck manual and for 8 weeks rather than 4.

Join the Tick-L (tick list) at:


Photo: Hunter G. waiting and watching for Spring!




Thursday, March 6, 2014

It’s Always Best to Start at the Beginning!

Contributed by a Col. Potter Volunteer

Toto, Dorothy, and the Scarecrow about to learn a lesson!

Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  You can expect to get many great tips to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, so it is good to know that some of this advice will also will apply to your current resident dogs.  Learning to be the Alpha pack leader is a great example.

Before You Bring Your New Cairn Into Your Home…

Before your new dog arrives, it's important that you understand that your new dog must accept YOU as the leader of the pack in order for there to be peace and harmony in the home.  First and foremost, you must be the Alpha, hence the messages you put out the first few days are vital to ultimate success.

Recognizing the inherent differences in canine and human thought processes is critical to this process.  Dogs think entirely in terms of "pack rank" hierarchy.  Humans think in terms of "equality" and "fairness."  The two concepts are, of course, mutually exclusive.

Pack ranking means there is one entity, be it human or Canine, at the top of the pack ("Alpha") and each additional member of the pack (human and canine) is lower than the Alpha in a sort of descending "step ladder" arrangement.  There's a top dog ("Alpha"), a next-in-line ("Beta") then everyone else in a stair-step array on down the line to "Omega" (the bottom of the pack).  When you understand this concept, and embrace the leadership position of Alpha of the pack, your dog will feel comforted and secure.  This results in an easier integration into your family's pack.

Our job, as humans, is to be that Alpha.  Then, and only then, can we help assure a calm and uneventful integration of a new dog into our family "pack."  When the dog is convinced that we, as humans, are above them in the pack rank, they are reassured that they are safe and that someone is in control of their pack (hence is guarding the safety of the pack).  Conversely, if they do not sense a strong Alpha presence in their humans, dogs feel they must "fight" to assume control of the pack and become the pack leader.  This is not a situation that you want, nor is it what THEY want.  Being "Alpha" really means being the “LEADER”, and that's your job:  to lead the family's pack.

How do you assume Alpha status is their eyes?

Like Dorothy on the Yellow Brick Road, it is always best to Start at the Beginning!  For the first two weeks minimum, you should have a drag lead attached to your New Cairn’s harness, inside your home and outside, in a securely fenced area.  A drag lead gives you power (Alpha) and helps you avoid situations where you ask for a behavior but have no way to ensure that you can make it happen without asking a 2nd time (which you should never do!).  “Come!” is a great example.  In the beginning it is really best to calmly step on the lead, pick it up, and then say, “Come!” where you can easily reel the dog in, ready to give a nice treat as soon as the action has been achieved.

How much you need to use the drag lead will vary from dog to dog, depending on their level of fear or sense of entitlement (i.e., they think they should be Alpha!), but you will be well served, no matter what, if you attach a drag lead for at least two weeks – and maybe longer.

Remember, in everything, the humans are always FIRST.  Eating or being fed, going up or down stairs, in and out doors, deciding where to sit, where to walk, etc., humans FIRST always.  This includes walking your new dog.  We strongly recommend that you have your new Cairn at your left heel, with his or her nose parallel with your left leg (while on leash, of course!) rather than allowing him or her to "lead" you by being out in front of you with the leash fully extended.

Given that we humans tend to try to be polite, this may go against our nature, but, to a dog, whoever is in front of the pack physically, or first in line for anything, is viewed as "Alpha" by the dogs.  Therefore, humans FIRST always.  If at any time in the future, you notice that your new little one begins to try to assert him or herself and assume "control" of your family's pack, go back to the HUMANS FIRST rule.  It's powerful in its simplicity and its message.

Also, keep in mind that to dogs, furniture - and especially human beds - are very powerful symbols of Alpha ranking.  Sounds odd to us, perhaps, but to a dog, whoever is on or in the human bed or the furniture has a powerful and envied position.  Therefore, being permitted to sit on furniture, or being invited on your bed is a privilege that the new dog must EARN.  It should not be granted to him or her immediately. 

It is STRONGLY recommended that you do not allow your new dog to sleep on or even BE on your bed for at least a couple of months.  The bed should be an earned pleasure.  Perhaps this will take longer than two months, and, perhaps, it will never be a good idea, depending on the dog’s Alpha tendencies. 

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world,
but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn


Read More About It:

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

And the Oscar goes to…


Col. Potter Needs a Few More Beginnings! 
Please Volunteer to Foster and help us help give a new start to every Cairn in need!

Please  Consider being a CP Volunteer!

CP Foster Home Application form:

CP Transport Volunteer Driver form:

CPCRN Volunteer form:

Col. Potter’s Name a Rescue Cairn Program









Thursday, February 27, 2014

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

Contributed by a Col. Potter Volunteer


The Scarecrow, Toto, and Dorothy, post-introduction in the Wizard of Oz!

Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  You can expect to get many great tips to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, so it is good to know that some of this advice will also apply to your current resident dogs.  Introductions is a great example.

Think Ahead about All Introductions!

Whether making introductions to family and friends or other dogs, it is important that you have your calm, secure, Alpha attitude firmly in place so that you can communicate to your New Cairn that this is all under control and there is nothing to worry about.  Remember: your New Cairn is a body language expert, so you communicate everything you project.  Be sure to send the right signals to your Cairn!

Whenever possible, plan ahead when your new Cairn is first meeting a family member or friend, especially if they also have a dog.  Arrange to have both dogs walking outside, in a neutral setting, moving in the same direction, towards a meeting point.  If you imagine a wide “V”, you each start out on opposite sides of the wide end and walk towards the narrow end at approximately the same pace.  Walking in the same direction allows both dogs to get closer and closer while not actually presenting the threat of facing a “new” dog.  When you get close enough to talk to the other person, speak in a happy, positive voice so both dogs know this is a friend.  Avoid handshakes or hugs, at this point, so you don’t accidentally communicate that either dog should feel the need to defend their human. 

You should expect the two dogs to scope each other out.  The best situation is where the dogs sniff one another, without any signs of dominance by either one, and, after a few minutes, they basically ignore one another and begin sniffing the grass or acting as if they want to continue their walk.  Sometimes this happens. Often it doesn't. 

Sometimes one dog may really want to sniff and sniff and sniff, and the other dog feels that he or she has been sniffed enough.  Use whatever words you use around the house to calm the other dog down, like "EASY", stated firmly as “Ease-eeeeeeeeeee”, and it helps the dogs to back off each other.  Then you should continue your walk, as you would normally.

Be calm and observant, always prepared to act quickly if needed.  You will know by your Cairn’s body language how to proceed in a natural manner that communicates “All is well and under control!” 

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world, 
but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn


Read More About It:

Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

And the Oscar goes to…


Col. Potter Needs a Few More Introductions! 
Please Volunteer to Foster and help us help every Cairn in need!

Please  Consider being a CP Volunteer!

CP Foster Home Application form:

CP Transport Volunteer Driver form:

CPCRN Volunteer form:

Col. Potter’s Name a Rescue Cairn Program









Saturday, February 15, 2014

Toto: The Other Side of the Story

Written by Michele Stadnick
 
Toto aka Terry

So, "The Wizard of Oz" is your favorite movie, you just LOVE Toto, and have always wanted a dog just like him? A dog who's small, cute, lovable, and doesn't shed all over your couch? 

You've done your research and learned that Cairn Terriers are (take your pick):


  • Good with children
  • Friendly
  • Loving family dogs
  • Adaptable to living in small apartments as well as large homes
Well, YES and NO…
Emma Lou and Friend
Probably NO ONE ever told you that Cairns will almost INVARIABLY:

  • Chase squirrels
  • Chase bunnies
  • Chase bugs
  • Chase bikes
  • Chase paper fluttering down the street
  • Chase anything that moves
  • Chase things that aren't moving, just to GET them moving so they'll have something to chase
  • Bark at cars
  • Bark at bikes
  • Bark at birds
  • Bark at trikes
  • Bark at trucks
  • Bark at the phone
  • Bark at fireworks
  • Bark at thunder
  • Bark at the doorbell
  • Bark at the doorbell on TV
  • Bark to hear themselves bark
  • Bark just to get your goat -- or your attention
  • Or both
  • Bark sometimes just cause it feels so damned GREAT
  • Dig up that mouse hole
  • Dig up your tulips
  • Dig up your roses
  • Dig up your lawn
  • Dig under your fence
  • Dig under your shed
  • Dig up your linoleum
  • Dig up your carpeting
  • Nip at people's feet if you haven't redirected their intense prey drive
  • Nip at your hands too, if not trained properly
  • Try to control their universe and everything in it -- INCLUDING YOU
  • Will succeed at this unless YOU intervene. And even then, they'll try again. And again. And again and again and again and again.
  • Lunge at other dogs on leash
  • Lunge at people, unless trained not to
  • Lunge ‘cause it feels good and they're in a hurry to get where they're going, and you're the only thing holding them back from experiencing the next exciting adventure around the corner or around the world.
  • Bolt out any open door in the blink of an eye
  • LET ME REPEAT THAT: THEY WILL BOLT OUT ANY OPEN DOOR IN THE BLINK OF AN EYE
  • And won't return until they're good and ready.
  • Sometimes not even then
  • Refuse to come -- unless they want to
  • Refuse to sit -- unless they want to
  • Refuse to stay -- unless they're bored silly, and if so, that's the BEST time to move around to stir up the action anyway
  • Refuse to stop barking -- unless there's something in it for them...like a fabulous treat
  • Refuse to do what you want at the PRECISE moment that it's most important that they do...like when you're trying to show off how obedient and well-trained they are (which is, of course, a grand delusion on your part).
  • Nor, it seems, has anyone told you:
  • A Cairn can never, ever, ever be trusted off-leash, EVER.
  • Not even for a second. Regardless of how well-trained you have deluded yourself into believing he is
  • That all the dogs you've had before and have trained so well don't matter...if they weren't Cairns.
  • Because Cairns are different.
  • Very different
  • That they're generally NOT the best breed for a home with small children.
  • That one bears repeating: Cairns are generally NOT the best breed for a home with small children.
  • That Cairns WILL shed a little (or a lot) if you don't groom them properly.
  • That they're relatively resistant to housebreaking (don't expect them to be housebroken in a week, or even a month)!
  • And even when you think they're housebroken, if they've got something else on their agenda at the moment, they're likely to conveniently "forget."
  • That they are affectionate -- on their terms, not yours.
  • That they are stubborn and hardheaded, not to mention incredibly independent
  • That obedience training is a necessity, not a luxury. And that it's just the FIRST step in the process.
  • That you should read the previous sentence again, and forget everything you think you know.  If you haven't owned a Cairn, it doesn't apply.
  • That they were bred to hunt and kill, and their intense prey drive can NEVER be trained out of them.  Toto may not have KILLED those flying monkeys, but that's only because Toto KNEW they were fakes.  Otherwise, they'd have been dead, not merely outwitted.
Wiggles
What they SHOULD have told you is:

  • They're wonderful for THE RIGHT OWNER
  • They're loving -- IF YOU LOVE THEM, TREAT THEM WELL, AND HAVE EARNED THEIR RESPECT
  • They're smart -- PROBABLY SMARTER THAN YOU
  • They're sweet -- WHEN THEY WANT TO BE
  • They're funny -- VIRTUALLY ALL THE TIME, IF YOU ENJOY DEMENTED, DEVIOUS, DEVILISH HUMOR
  • They're good with GOOD, WELL-BEHAVED CHILDREN WHO HAVE GOOD, RESPONSIBLE PARENTS.  And if they haven't had a bad experience previously with ill-behaved kids. Otherwise, it's a recipe for disaster.
  • They're strong
  • They're hearty
  • They're brave
  • They're relentless
  • They're devious
  • They're insightful
  • They're indomitable
  • They're energetic beyond description
  • They're intelligent beyond belief
  • They're the BEST dog you'll ever own
  • BUT...they just may be the WORST dog you can imagine.
  • THAT PART IS ALL UP TO YOU!
Abbie and Gem
Oh, and by the way, Toto was actually a GIRL!