Col. Potter Training Tips: Understanding and Managing Resource Guarding!

Resource Guarding is a natural instinct, brought on by anxiety, especially in a dog who is under-confident about other things in his life.  The very best course of action is to avoid situations that threaten the dog and its possessions.  Allow your dog to chew in peace when appropriate and never try and take the toy away except as part of a positive exchange.

Resource Guarding

What is resource guarding?

Resource guarding (RG) is when a dog has possession of an object that he/she thinks is valuable, and is growling/snapping/biting in an effort to protect/keep that object.  

The object may be something we deem silly, for example, a piece of Kleenex is a common object dogs guard...or even empty bowls.  Some dogs will even guard spots, like a bed or couch.  And in few, rarer cases dogs will see their owner is a resource and guard that person.

 
Why does my dog do this?

Generally speaking, RG is a genetic, inborn behavior.  This behavior evolved because in the wild, possession of something is important, and not allowing that thing to be stolen is a matter of life and death.  Many dogs retain this behavior, despite there being ample resources.  Just like hunting, playing, and mating, RG is a survival skill built into the dog.

In some cases, RG can be learned.  This happens most often when a bored dog starts to chew objects.  The owner approaches and removes the object, often times scolding the dog.  Unfortunately, this only teaches the dog to steal/chew objects out of the owner’s sight to avoid punishment, and/OR it will teach him that he needs to protect the object from the owner, as he sees the owner as a thief.

 
Things like anxiety, being in a new home, or the addition of another dog or pet can increase these behaviors, or cause them to appear seemingly spontaneously.  Dogs that are under-confident in other aspects of their lives tend to be guarders.

This puppy is at the first level of warning, freezing in place and giving a hard stare, his paw on his toy, because his Alpha sister is standing right there, ready to jump in and grab his special toy.  Know the signs so you can avoid trouble!  The timely distraction of a training session, with “sits” and “downs” and great treats, avoided further escalation in this case.

What’s with all the biting, snapping, growling?

These behaviors are part of the dogs hierarchy of warnings.  The warnings play out like this:

• Freezing in place/hard staring

• Placing face against the object, putting more paws on the object

• Lip lifting

• Growling

• Warning/air snapping (these will not make contact)

• Warning snaps with contact (does not break skin)

• Biting that breaks skin

• Full attack fight that must be broken up.

Generally speaking, most dogs will travel up the hierarchy, over time, giving stronger and stronger warnings, until they finally end up biting or attacking.  Now, how hard the dog bites, depends on his learned bite inhibition.  Bite inhibition is learned as a puppy from littermates, and from his owners when he comes home.  If a dog has good bite inhibition, he will be very restrained in his bites, if he has poor control, he may bite very hard, and sooner than a dog with better control.

Some dogs go up this hierarchy, gradually, over time.  For example a dog being pestered by another dog while he eats may progress over weeks or months until they finally fight, but other dogs may go up the warning hierarchy VERY quickly - so quickly that they run through all the signals in a blink of an eye.  These are the types of dogs that many people site as “biting without warning".  What actually is happening is perhaps the owner did not see the signals, or chose to ignore or punish the lower level signals.

The point being, dogs do not want to attack over their object, they want to do everything possible to keep their object, but without causing harm, this is ritualized aggression.  Its when the issue is pushed (for example a human that continues to take objects away despite warnings, or another dog that continues to bully the RG) the dog's behavior can, and usually does, escalate.

 
Should I use corrections to stop this?

Isn't my dog trying to dominant me?

Dogs that RG are not trying to climb a social ladder, or overthrow the humans as the "leader".  In fact, these are the dogs in the household with confidence or anxiety issues. These are dogs that are, in a sense, "paranoid" that everyone is out to get their "valued thing".  Confident dogs do not feel the need to RG most objects, as they are positive no one is even going to try to take their stuff.

 
However, most "normal" dogs, with average to high confidence, may guard something of very high value - like a piece of raw meat, a new toy, etc. - when the dog doesn't normally get to have those things.  It is the abnormally high value of the object that elicits the behavior.

 
Strangers can also create the behavior.  A dog that would never RG from the family may snap at a guest, the anxiety from not knowing the person as well triggers the behavior.  Or, in the case of a party or gathering at the house, the dog may simply be over-stimulated.

Corrections for this behavior, such as yelling at the dog, making hissing sounds, physically punishing the dog, poking him, or removing the object as punishment are all methods with a very high likelihood of backfiring, plus making the behavior worse.  Since this is often anxiety based, punishment will only increase anxiety, and also damage your relationship with your dog.  It puts you two in conflict every time he finds an object he likes.

What should I do first?

First, we want to manage (prevent) the behavior as much as possible.  Pick up your clothes and things, remove dog toys and treats from the floor, moving and covering trashcans, and so forth.  Use x-pens and baby gates to keep your dog out of areas where he is going to find objects to guard.

 
The reason this is so important is that every time the dog practices the behavior, it is becoming more and more ingrained.  Preventing it helps keep the dog at the level he/she is already at, while you implement training.  If the dog guards food/food bowls, feed him separately from other dogs, preferably in his own room or crate.

 
For dogs that guard food bowls/food management:

 
If the dog is being aggressive with humans, one of the best things you can start is hand-feeding ALL meals.  Many dogs do not make the connection that food comes from YOU, and instead think it magically appears in their magic bowl (hence guarding an empty bowl).

 
Couch/bed guarding management:

Attaching a short leash to help guide the dog off the spot will work in an emergency, but placing cardboard boxes or other objects on the surface that discourage usage is preferred.  Also remember to close doors or use baby gates to keep the dog away from the surface they guard.

Make sure to discuss the management plan with all family members so that everyone is on board and there is a better chance of success.

Ok, so I am preventing the behavior, can I start training now?

Yes, but first...

All this training advice is meant as a guideline.  Different dogs will progress at different rates due to temperament, history, environment, handler skill, and so forth.  It is very important to understand that RG takes a decent amount of time to "fix" with most dogs, and the training will have to be repeated, from the beginning, with all other family members to ensure the dog has generalized the behavior.  Patience is key.

Also, if your dog is breaking skin, you are otherwise afraid or intimidated by your dog, or you in any way feel you may be harmed (dog size is a factor to consider), then its time to hire a professional to help you.  Keep in mind, most trainers are not experienced in aggression cases and will not take them on.  Also be aware that many of the trainers that agree to take on aggression cases may not be truly qualified to do so.  Your best bet is to select your trainer very wisely or hire a good behaviorist, in either case, one who understands and practices Relationship Based Training.

Read About Relationship Based Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Watch a Great Video about Relationship Based Training Tips by Zak George:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33mLzcOU5wM

Col. Potter Training Tips: Teaching "Look at Me!" is Easy, Essential, and Forever!

Written by a CP Volunteer

Teaching "Look at me!" is easy, essential, and Forever!

So you find yourself trying over and over again to get your stubborn Cairn to listen to whatever command or instruction you're attempting to give him or her.  And your voice gets louder and louder each time you repeat, with increasing urgency, your futile attempts to get him to respond.  Does this sound familiar?

"Buffy... Sit! ...Sit!  Buffy.. SIT! ...SIT ..SIT ...SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT!!!!!!!!!"  And there he stands, oblivious to your demands.  What's wrong with him anyhow?  Is he deaf?

No, let me assure you his hearing is great.  In fact, Cairns' hearing is incredibily acute.  He hears you alright.  But he isn't listening to you at all!  Why?  Because there's nothing in it for him to do so, and because, well, because he's a Cairn Terrier, with all the stubborn, independent, mischievous attitude that implies.

So what can you do?  How do you get them to listen to you so that you can get them to do what you want, and sometimes absolutely need them to do?  I've found a very effective technique, that is very simple to teach.  It's the "Look At Me!" command.

OK, we're looking!  What's next?

You see, before you can get most Cairns to do what you want them to do, you have to get their undivided attention.  Not an easy task, as we all know how easily distracted they are and how focused they can become on heaven knows what...but certainly not on us.  The "Look At Me!" command is what I like to call an "interim command," in that its purpose is to redirect their attention from whatever they are focusing on in preparation for whatever follow-up command you want to issue to them.  It can also serve as a very powerful "luring" technique (more about that later).  What the "Look At Me!" command does is gets Buffy to, as its name states, LOOK at you.  That's half the battle with a Cairn Terrier.  And it's one you can win easily, I assure you.

Here's how to teach this simple, and very effective, command:

• Gather some "high value" treats (small bits of cheese, freeze dried liver, etc., something the dog LOVES that you reserve for training).  Have them readily available in your pocket or the palm of your hand. Pick a quiet time, where there are no distractions and get Buffy to SIT.

• Once he's sitting, place the treat between your thumb and index finger, so a portion of it is showing, but the majority of it is firmly grasped between your fingers.

• Stand up reasonably straight, with just a slight bend at the waist (do NOT bend down at the knees, you don't want to be on his level)

• Place your fingers (with the treat, of course!) just beyond the tip of his nose and draw it STRAIGHT up to the tip of your nose from his.  As you do so, say, in a firm and deep voice, "Buffy LOOK at ME!"  (emphasis on the LOOK and ME).  [A small aside here, females make the mistake of issuing commands to dogs in a high sing-song voice rather than a DEEP authoritative one.  Become accustomed to giving commands in a LOW, deep voice...imagine your voice if you were a male.  It's far more effective than our higher pitched voices.  Also, if you reserve that voice register for commands, it sounds different to the Cairn and will arouse his curiousity if nothing else!]

• Because you've drawn the treat (which Buffy wants desperately) directly from his nose to yours, by necessity, his eyes will follow the treat toward your face.  That's what you want to happen.  As soon as your fingers with the treat touch your nose, and assuming his gaze has followed your fingers, tell him "GOOD BOY!" and give him the treat!

• Do this 3 times in succession, 3 times per day to begin.  A total of 9 repetitions.  Most Cairns will be so eager for the treat that they will begin anticipating the command by looking at your NOSE as soon as you begin to draw the treat from his nose to yours.  THAT'S GREAT!  But remember to say (in your low, deep voice), "Buffy, LOOK at ME!" as you're drawing the treat toward your nose.  When he focuses on it, hold it there at the tip of your nose for a few seconds.  Tell him "GOOD BOY!" and give him the treat.  Your goal is to get him to anticipate the command by following it immediately AND to lengthen the time he focuses on your nose before you treat him.  Ideally, you can hold the treat at the tip of your nose for at least 3 seconds (count, 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000) and he'll focus on your face.  He's looking at you!

Now that he looks at you almost immediately AND he watches you intently for 3 seconds, it's time to begin treating him randomly rather than every single time.  Give him the treat 2 out of 3 times (or 4 out of 5), and gradually reduce the number of times you treat him until you no longer have to SHOW him the treat at all to get him to "LOOK at ME!"  This will take a week or so of work, but believe me, it's worth every single 90 second interval that you do it.   Always POINT at your nose, however, even if you don't have the treat.  It will become sign language to him.

"Look at Me!" is a great portable tool you can take anywhere!

When the command is firmly established in his or her repertoire, you should be able to get him to sit and LOOK at YOU simply by pointing at your nose (if he's already looking in your direction).  And if he isn't, by simply saying the command (in your best low register voice!).

Now, here's how you use this command after it's entrenched.  LOOK at ME! is what I refer to as an "interim" command.  In other words, it should be used as a bridge between a dog's not paying any attention to you whatsoever and the command (or direction or behavior) that you WANT him to perform.  It can be used to calm an overly excited dog.  And, as I indicated earlier, it's a GREAT way to "lure" a Cairn.

What do I mean by "lure" him?  Well, here's a true story.  My Cairn, Max, began exhibiting strong signs of wanting to chase cars at a very early age.  He'd tug and lunge on his leash whenever a car would approach us on our daily walks through the neighborhood.  I tried all the "tried and true" training techniques for breaking a dog's car chasing tendencies.  His obedience trainer instructed me to use the "leash correction" on him.  I did.  It not only didn't stop him, it made it worse.  I tried the alpha roll.  Another dead end.  I tried verbal corrections, again to no avail.  I had friends drive by and pitch coin-filled soda cans out the window as they passed Max and me.  They thought I was crazy, the neighbors were sure of it, and Max was more determined to lunge at the passing cars than ever.  His behavior was escalating rather than diminishing.  Frankly, I was desperate.  So, in the true spirit of desperation, I changed courses entirely.  I decided to change from negative training, which all the other techniques were, to a positive approach.  In other words, I decided, out of sheer desperation, to REWARD good behavior rather than trying to correct/change unwanted behavior.

Keep it positive!  Reward good behavior - Positive training works!

I resorted to the LOOK at ME! command I'd taught him as a very young puppy.  I loaded up with high-value treats and we set out for our walk.  Since we live in a suburban neighborhood with many winding streets, you can hear cars coming before you can see them.  As soon as I'd hear a car approaching, I'd give Max the LOOK at ME! command and I'd move the treat from the tip of my nose to approximately 1/2 way between his nose and mine.  As the car came closer, I'd repeat, "Max, LOOK at ME!" with the treat closer to his nose.  As soon as the car passed, I'd exclaim "GOOD BOY!!!! and would give him the treat immediately.  The trick, I soon learned, was to gain his attention with the "LOOK at ME!" command, hold his attention by showing (luring him with) the treat, then REWARDING him immediately through praise and the treat when he did NOT lunge at the car.  Rather than having him continue to SIT while I was "luring" him with the command and the visible treat, I began really luring him with it as I kept walking while keeping the treat out in front of him.  I kept PRAISING him as he continued to focus on the "lure" of the treat rather than lunging at the car.  And, as before, I'd give him the treat as soon as the car passed us.

To my amazement, it took only about 4 or 5 cars worth of high-value treat luring before I saw how a Cairn mind works!  I heard a car approaching and I immediately gave the "LOOK at ME!" command, with the treat at the ready.  I saw Max quickly look toward the car and then back at the treat... and I could see he'd made his decision.  The treat was worth more to him than was the car.  We were over the hump!  Within 2 or 3 days, Max would immediately LOOK at ME! as soon as he heard a car in the distance.  I began gradually (and randomly) reducing the times I gave him a treat, until, in a few more days, he didn't get treats at all and he was no longer interested in trying to chase cars.  

I have since used the same technique to redirect his desire to lunge at and chase bicyclists and motorcycles.  I also use it to distract him from other dogs while we're out on walks.

Even a rambunctious little boy can learn "Look at me!"

I have taught this command to every one of the 10 Fosters I've had, and they've all learned it quickly and effortlessly.  It's truly a wonderful training technique for your Cairn and can be used for so many things.  I use it all the time when I want to teach him a new behavior, or when I simply want to gain his attention.  Every now and then, when I issue the LOOK at ME! command, I'll surprise him with a treat, just to keep the command interesting to him.

Try it with your Cairn - and Good Luck!

Michele

CRM

2/5/05

Col. Potter Training Tips: Nothing in Life is Free!!!

Contributed by a Col. Potter Volunteer

A nice "Sit!" is a small price to pay every day for a yummy treat, yet the dividends accrued in terms of ongoing excellent behavior are priceless!

Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  You can expect to get many great tips to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, so it is good to know that some of this advice will also will apply to your current resident dogs.  Learning to establish and maintain your Alpha placement is a great example.

Before your new dog arrives, it's important that you understand that your new dog must accept YOU as the leader of the pack in order for there to be peace and harmony in the home.  Follow the great advice in “It’s Always Best to Start at theBeginning!” and add to it with this very easy training tool: Nothing in Life is Free!”

How to Establish and Maintain Harmony at Home!

Are you looking for a good, easy way to develop peaceful, harmonious relationships among your dogs? 

Ask and you shall receive!

Really!

Every day, throughout the day, however you choose to set the pattern, you simply need to Ask the dogs to respond to a simple command, offer praise, then reward with a high value treat.

Nothing in Life is Free!

When you ask your dog(s) to “Sit!” for a treat - and make them wait just a bit for the treat - you are really saying “I am Alpha!” and when you are Alpha, you will ease any tensions in the pack.  Also, give all treats directly from your hand.  It is an easy, easy way to reinforce your dog's understanding that all good things come from your hands.  Toss it on the floor* and you have thrown away a valuable tool.

Do not ever give a treat of any kind without Asking your dog(s) to do a simple task.

The list of possible commands is long:

 "Sit!"

"Down!"

"Here!” or “Come!"

“Look at Me!”

“Wait…”

“Crate!”

“Bed!”

Anything you can ask your dog to do – that he or she will understand – is a great and easy training tool for harmony.   It establishes a calming pattern that carries over into other aspects of their life.

This is not to say that there won’t be dust-ups from time to time, but as a strong Alpha leader, you will find it easier to anticipate and diffuse any issues that might naturally arise.

Just remember, Nothing in Life is Free!  

Doing simple training exercises, every day, you will keep things clear as to who is in charge, and if you are in charge, harmony will reign!

**NOTE** Great training treats are small bits of block cheddar cheese or high quality grain-free kibble.  You should factor your training treats into your puppy’s daily meal portions so you don’t accidentally end up with an unhealthy weight problem.

*Tossing treats on the floor also communicates to your dog that it is perfectly OK to eat off the floor.  Don't expect that your dog will differientiate between what you toss and anything else he might find down there.  You can not 100% prevent having your dog swallow something harmful, but think twice before you encourage them to think that scavenging food is a good thing from any place other than directly out of your hand or the bowl you set down at meal time.

Good luck! And thank you again for opening your heart and home to a rescued Cairn!

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world,

but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn

Read More About It:

It’s Always Best to Start at the Beginning!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/03/its-always-best-to-start-at-beginning.html

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/im-not-sure-weve-been-properly.html

There’s No Place Like Home!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/03/theres-no-place-like-home.html

Easy Housetraining Tips!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/03/easy-housetraining-tips.html

Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/toto-other-side-of-story.html

Col. Potter Needs a Few More Beginnings! 

Please Volunteer to Foster and help us help give a new start to every Cairn in need!

Please  Consider being a CP Volunteer!

CP Foster Home Application form:

http://www.cairnrescue.com/rescue/foster.htm

CP Transport Volunteer Driver form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/transport.htm 

CPCRN Volunteer form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/volunteer.htm

Col. Potter’s Name a Rescue Cairn Program

http://mall.cairnrescue.com/forms/frm_namecairn.htm

Col. Potter Training Tips: No Place Like Home!

Contributed by a Col. Potter Volunteer

When life is a little stressful, it’s nice to have a place to call Home!

Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  You can expect to get many great tips to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, so it is good to know that some of this advice will also will apply to your current resident dogs.  Learning to use a crate effectively is a great example.

Crate Training Essentials for Your New Cairn

Your new dog has been Crate Trained, and is accustomed to sleeping in his or her crate.  He or she is also accustomed to spending some "down time" relaxing in the crate.  This is a practice that we HIGHLY recommend you continue.  Crate training is definitely NOT "cruel" as many people believe.  Numerous studies have shown that, contrary to being cruel to dogs, it's compassionate and caring.  Canines are, by nature, pack and den animals.  They feel safe and secure when they have their own den-like containment area.  A cage/crate serves as such.  Maintaining a positive pattern of regular, daily crate time will serve you well and will provide your new Cairn a safe and familiar place of his or her own.

Another helpful hint is that we often give the new dog too much attention at first in an attempt to make him or her feel welcomed, secure, and loved.  Please be aware that your new Rescued Cairn will be on emotional and physical overload for at least a couple of weeks.  Give them time and space to "decompress."  To become familiar with and comfortable in your home and with your family, on his or her terms.
 

A wire crate lets your Cairn feel like part of the activity

in the room, and a sheet or blanket can be draped over it

to give a more den-like feel when a more quiet time is desired.

Keep in mind that your little one has experienced at least TWO major disruptions in life already: being rescued from whatever his or her original environment was, then leaving the safety of the Foster Home to become your adopted dog.  Just think about your new Cairn’s story and imagine yourself in the same situation… Changes – even for the better – can be very stressful.  It's no wonder they experience a bit of overload.  Quiet time in the crate will help your Rescued Cairn adjust more easily - and more quickly.

Crate him or her at night and while you are away to help him or her feel secure.  Also, give him or her "time outs" in the crate whenever you sense the beginning of a little over stimulation or overloaded.  Sometimes everyone - human and canine - needs a chance to catch their breath.

Take it Easy and You’ll Get it Right!

Basically, TAKE IT EASY with your new Cairn!  We recommend that you not take the new dog into a lot of new situations right at first.  Many mistakes are made because the new adoptive home is so excited about their dog that they want to share their new little one with all their friends and family.  This new dog has NO CLUE that the adoptive family is their new family, nor will they have a clue who these new people are - especially new people who have dogs.  Give your New Cairn time to adjust to you, your immediate family, and your home before taking him out to visit friends or relatives.  If your friends and family cannot wait to meet your new family member, please introduce them to him or her slowly and allow time to adjust and welcome each member one at a time.  A large number of unfamiliar humans descending on a newly adopted Cairn has the potential to be overwhelming and can cause them to react in a negative way.

You cannot go too slowly...  but you can move too quickly by exposing your new adoptee to too many new people, places, sights, sounds and smells at first.  Be sure to use the crate wisely to give your new Cairn time to relax a few times each day, always making it a gentle, positive experience going in and coming back out.  Little bits of cheese in your hand help in any crating exercise, and it will reinforce the absolute goodness of your hands!

Good luck! And thank you again for opening your heart and home to a rescued Cairn!

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world,

but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn

Read More About It:

It’s Always Best to Start at the Beginning!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/03/its-always-best-to-start-at-beginning.html

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/im-not-sure-weve-been-properly.html

Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/toto-other-side-of-story.html

And the Oscar goes to…

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/and-oscar-goes-to.html

Col. Potter Needs a Few More Beginnings! 

Please Volunteer to Foster and help us help give a new start to every Cairn in need!

Please  Consider being a CP Volunteer!

CP Foster Home Application form:

http://www.cairnrescue.com/rescue/foster.htm

CP Transport Volunteer Driver form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/transport.htm 

CPCRN Volunteer form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/volunteer.htm

Col. Potter’s Name a Rescue Cairn Program

http://mall.cairnrescue.com/forms/frm_namecairn.htm

Col Potter Training Tips: Start at the Beginning!

Contributed by a Col. Potter Volunteer

Have a thoughtful plan in place for your new Cairn - before you open the crate door for the first time - and you will have the best chance for a happy ending!

Are you thinking about adding a new Rescued Cairn to your family?  There are many things to consider, and lots of planning to do.  You can expect to get many great tips to help you integrate your New Cairn into your home, so it is good to know that some of this advice will also will apply to your current resident dogs.  Learning to be the Alpha pack leader is a great example.

Before You Bring Your New Cairn Into Your Home…

Before your new dog arrives, it's important that you understand that your new dog must accept YOU as the leader of the pack in order for there to be peace and harmony in the home.  First and foremost, you must be the Alpha, hence the messages you put out the first few days are vital to ultimate success.

Recognizing the inherent differences in canine and human thought processes is critical to this process.  Dogs think entirely in terms of "pack rank" hierarchy.  Humans think in terms of "equality" and "fairness."  The two concepts are, of course, mutually exclusive.

Being Alpha does not mean your dog is supposed to think you're a dog!  It is ludicrous to even suggest that!  Being Alpha simply means your dog sees you as the Ultimate Leader, the entity who controls all of the things of value: food, toys, furnishings, doors, and so forth.

Pack ranking means there is one entity, be it human or Canine, at the top of the pack ("Alpha") and each additional member of the pack (human and canine) is lower than the Alpha in a sort of descending "step ladder" arrangement.  There's a top dog ("Alpha"), a next-in-line ("Beta") then everyone else in a stair-step array on down the line to "Omega" (the bottom of the pack).  When you understand this concept, and embrace the leadership position of Alpha of the pack, your dog will feel comforted and secure.  This results in an easier integration into your family's pack.

Our job, as humans, is to be that Alpha.  Then, and only then, can we help assure a calm and uneventful integration of a new dog into our family "pack."  When the dog is convinced that we, as humans, are above them in the pack rank, they are reassured that they are safe and that someone is in control of their pack (hence is guarding the safety of the pack).  Conversely, if they do not sense a strong Alpha presence in their humans, dogs feel they must "fight" to assume control of the pack and become the pack leader.  This is not a situation that you want, nor is it what THEY want.  Being "Alpha" really means being the “LEADER”, and that's your job:  to lead the family's pack.

How do you assume Alpha status is their eyes?

Like Dorothy on the Yellow Brick Road, it is always best to Start at the Beginning!  For the first two weeks minimum, you should have a drag lead attached to your New Cairn’s harness, inside your home and outside, in a securely fenced area.  A drag lead gives you power (Alpha) and helps you avoid situations where you ask for a behavior but have no way to ensure that you can make it happen without asking a 2^nd time (which you should never do!).  “Come!” is a great example.  In the beginning it is really best to calmly step on the lead, pick it up, and then say, “Come!” where you can easily reel the dog in, ready to give a nice treat as soon as the action has been achieved.

A drag lead is strongly recommended for at least the first two weeks, and maybe longer, to prevent potential trouble and give you easy control when needed.

How much you need to use the drag lead will vary from dog to dog, depending on their level of fear or sense of entitlement (i.e., they think they should be Alpha!), but you will be well served, no matter what, if you attach a drag lead for at least two weeks – and maybe longer.

Remember, in everything, the humans are always FIRST.  Eating or being fed, going up or down stairs, in and out doors, deciding where to sit, where to walk, etc., humans FIRST always.  This includes walking your new dog.  We strongly recommend that you have your new Cairn at your left heel, with his or her nose parallel with your left leg (while on leash, of course!) rather than allowing him or her to "lead" you by being out in front of you with the leash fully extended.

Given that we humans tend to try to be polite, this may go against our nature, but, to a dog, whoever is in front of the pack physically, or first in line for anything, is viewed as "Alpha" by the dogs.  Therefore, humans FIRST always.  If at any time in the future, you notice that your new little one begins to try to assert him or herself and assume "control" of your family's pack, go back to the HUMANS FIRST rule.  It's powerful in its simplicity and its message.

Also, keep in mind that to dogs, furniture - and especially human beds - are very powerful symbols of Alpha ranking.  Sounds odd to us, perhaps, but to a dog, whoever is on or in the human bed or the furniture has a powerful and envied position.  Therefore, being permitted to sit on furniture, or being invited on your bed is a privilege that the new dog must EARN.  It should not be granted to him or her immediately. 

It is STRONGLY recommended that you do not allow your new dog to sleep on or even BE on your bed for at least a couple of months.  The bed should be an earned pleasure.  Perhaps this will take longer than two months, and, perhaps, it will never be a good idea, depending on the dog’s Alpha tendencies. 

Rescuing one Cairn will not change the world,
but it will surely change the world for that one Rescued Cairn

Read More About It:

I’m Not Sure we’ve been Properly Introduced!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/im-not-sure-weve-been-properly.html

Toto: The Other Side of the Story!

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/toto-other-side-of-story.html

And the Oscar goes to…

http://cairnrescue.blogspot.com/2014/02/and-oscar-goes-to.html

Col. Potter Needs a Few More Beginnings! 

Please Volunteer to Foster and help us help give a new start to every Cairn in need!

Please  Consider being a CP Volunteer!

CP Foster Home Application form:

http://www.cairnrescue.com/rescue/foster.htm

CP Transport Volunteer Driver form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/transport.htm 

CPCRN Volunteer form:

http://cairnrescue.com/rescue/volunteer.htm

Col. Potter’s Name a Rescue Cairn Program

http://mall.cairnrescue.com/forms/frm_namecairn.htm