I need this habit

Oh dear me. I am in real danger of being overwhelmed with puppy love! It is time to get serious.

I have three collies who love welcoming Col. Potter Cairn Rescue Network fosters into our home. The collies are well-trained, and they are sensitive to the needs of fragile rescued dogs. I fostered CPCRN’s frightened Westie "Mayfly" in April -- and I immediately fell in love with her. I adopted her, and I'm happy to report that Maybelle (new name) is blossoming. Then CPCRN rescued Roan, a cairn puppy who has multiple heart defects and a prognosis of 1-2 years. I am now providing hospice care for her. My challenge: neither Maybelle nor Roan has had any training. No house-training, no obedience training, not even a few manners.

When I ask the terriers to "sit," they both stand on their hind legs! I will start capturing this with "up!" -- but I still can't get them to sit, even if I lure them with high value treats.

Getting smothered with terrier kisses is the best feeling in the world. But it loses some of its charm when you stand up from your cuddle session and step into a pile of poop. As I look at these two lovebug terriers, I can’t help but feel a little overwhelmed. Where do I start?

Tiffany Lovell (CPDT-KA, CSAT, AAI) wrote a great article in Whole Dog Journal, “The 7 Habits of Highly Effective Dog Owners.” One of the habits is exactly what I need:

“Prioritizing is a necessity in all aspects of our lives. Working with your dog is no exception. There will probably be several things you wish to change or work on with your dog, but certain ones should take precedent… Focus on teaching your dog whatever behaviors meet your immediate needs; usually, the rest can be handled with proper management such as baby gates, fences, a leash, stuffed food toys, etc. There is nothing wrong with using management to keep everyone safe and happy until you have a chance to work on that next issue with your dog.”

I am setting priorities now. “Let’s go potty” is #1 on the list, closely followed by “come.” I have a feeling I will be trying forever to get "sit." And is "stay" even a remote possibility?

In the meantime, I am focusing on management techniques. 

• I worry about Roan scooting out the front door, so I’ve put up a freestanding pet gate at the entryway.
• Roan, who came from a backyard breeder, fiercely guards her food from any dog who is nearby. I give her a special table that she can hop on, eating her food up and away from curious doggie companions.
• Neither terrier knows how to go up and down stairs. They love to cuddle in the morning, so I’ve put dog stairs next to the bed, and they are learning the concept of steps while coming up in the bed to greet the dawn (LOL, pun intended).

What are some of your most effective management techniques? Please share your experiences in the comment section below.

— Dawn F.

CPCRN Training Tip: treat and retreat

I truly believe that dogs rescue us just as much as we rescue them.

I can’t even remember the last time I wrote a training tip for this blog. It seems like a lifetime ago… and, in a way, it was. I had to take time off from normal day-to-day life while I cared for a loved one with very aggressive cancer. He died in April, just four months after receiving his diagnosis. I’m still grieving, but I’m finally returning to the land of the living. And who better to help me along that trip than my recent foster, Miss Maybelle?

Maybelle (CPCRN Mayfly) is a three-year-old Westie, rescued by CPCRN. The owner described Maybelle as perhaps being a "problem" dog. A breeder “had to keep her in an ex pen attached to a wire crate as she would growl at him, and he didn't trust her outside as she tried to hide and he couldn't catch her.” Did CPCRN want to take her? CPCRN said yes.

Maybelle was such a fearful little girl that she bit the vet tech during her initial intake exams. They put her harness and leash on her when she was anesthetized for her spay. And transporters were warned not to put their hands into the crate when they were bringing her to me to foster.

I knew how Maybelle felt. I didn’t want to deal with people just then, and I felt sure that Maybelle didn’t either. People scared her, and she wouldn’t accept human touch. So look at who reached out to her... Kua, my Siamese cat who was rescued from a hoarder. I adopted Kua to bring comfort to my loved one during his cancer ordeal, and Kua did the same for this frightened pup.

Rescued cat Kua reaches out to assure a fearful Maybelle.

After 24 hours of giving Maybelle time alone, I started tossing treats to her. I learned this “treat and retreat” at a seminar by Suzanne Clothier. Rather than lure a dog closer to you by offering a treat from your hand, you toss a treat to the dog’s “safety zone,” the distance far enough away from you where the dog feels secure. Then toss a treat a little closer to you. Then toss another treat out further again, to let her retreat to her safety zone. The point is to show a fearful dog that you respect her need to feel safe, and that you are not going to trick her into doing something that increases her fear. The dog learns to trust you.

After four days of letting Maybelle set the pace of our acquaintance, she was still skittish, but she let me pick her up and pet her. She let me trim the hair from her eyes. And she made friends with my collies Nemo and Rosie.

Collies Nemo and Rosie help Maybelle learn about life in her new home.

On May 4, two weeks after I started fostering Maybelle, I applied to adopt her. We’ve been having such a wonderful time. Her antics and love erase a little of my grief every day. I am so glad she rescued me.

— Dawn Forsythe

Col. Potter Training Tip: The power of yes

by Dawn F.

No, no, NO! Don’t do that!!

Can you imagine hearing that, day after day, year after year? And yet so many dogs have to listen to "NO!" for their entire lives. Or, after a couple of years of it, an owner finally says they’ve had enough of the “bad dog” and surrenders him to an animal shelter.

In a nutshell, that’s what happened to my newest foster, Bonacci. This 4-year-old lovebug ended up in a shelter, frightened and confused. And very poorly trained.

The owner told the shelter that Bonacci was a “bad dog.” He wasn’t housetrained, and he chewed “everything,” they said. He “breaks chains” and he pulled on the leash when they tried to walk him. And when he “misbehaved,” instead of showing him the correct behavior, the family banished him to the outdoors or to his crate.

I will admit that I was hesitant to foster a dog who was so out of control. But I quickly discovered that he wanted desperately to please me. He only needed to hear “yes!”

Yes, Bonacci, you can go outside to play and poop and pee. Yes, you are a good boy for doing your business outside. You are so good, here’s a treat! And yes, you can come back in any time you want. Even if it is just 20 seconds since you went out.

Yes, little man, you can chew. Here’s a chewie just for you. Or do you like this chew toy? Yes, you can have both.

Yes, Bonacci, you can chew on that little raccoon toy as much as you want!

Yes, you can stay by my side. Yes, you can sleep on my lap. Yes, we will keep the crate door open so you can come and go as you please. Yes, we will do all this while you learn that you can trust the humans who love you.

You are afraid of being locked behind a pet gate, even for a moment? Yes, I'll be back in a couple of minutes, and here's a treat to show you that this isn't punishment.

I am happy to report that this "bad boy" hasn’t had an accident in the house, except during his first hour in my home. He is so happy to hear “yes!” when he pees outside. He chewed a hole in one dog bed, but now he knows where the stash of chewies is kept and, yes, he can have one whenever I’m around to monitor him. 

Yes, Bonacci is a good dog! He needed to know what he should do, instead of what he shouldn’t do. It speaks to his character that he can respond so readily to positive reinforcement, after years of inappropriate punishment. I am looking forward to seeing how much we can accomplish with positive training techniques, to prepare him for life with his future forever family.

I hope he never has to hear “NO!” again.

Col. Potter Training Tip: Grieve, then love again

by Dawn F.

This has been a difficult winter for me. Regular blog readers know that my Westie pup, Peaches, had a severe heart defect that put her at risk for sudden death. She met that fate in late November, just a few days after I had her Christmas portrait taken.

Peaches posed beautifully for her holiday portrait.  

Peaches died without pain. It happened exactly as the cardiologist told me it would. The little girl just laid quietly on her side… and then she was gone. The world -- my world -- lost a small but wonderful source of joy.

A few weeks after that numbing loss, a dear friend was diagnosed with advanced cancer. By the time the doctors found it, the urothelial cancer had spread to my friend’s kidney, bones, and brain. I am my friend’s caregiver, and -- as thousands of people discover every day -- cancer’s rampage can be more devastating than I ever imagined.

My sadness seemed to be a permanent fixture.

Then, this week, Col. Potter Cairn Rescue Network called and told me of a 4-year-old cairn mix who they rescued from a shelter, where his owner had given him up. CPCRN needed a foster home. It wasn't going to be an easy foster. The former owner never trained the pup, they just banished him outdoors whenever he misbehaved. But as I learned more about him, and as I thought more about it, I could feel the gloom lifting from my life.

The plan is to transport the pup to my home on Saturday. He will be bewildered and may shut down as he experiences more upheaval, so I will give him his own room apart from my collie crew (who will want to welcome our new guest, but will have to wait!). I’ll give him time to adjust and let him show me when he is ready to start his new life. Then, together, this pup and I will re-discover life’s little joys, with lots of praise and treats for every step forward. And lots of unconditional love when a step back is necessary.

So, what is my training tip for today? It is for you, dear reader. When you experience loss, take time to grieve. As much time as you need. When you are ready, accept a new challenge, a new chance to make a difference. Fostering or adopting a rescued pup can fill that hole in your heart.

Col. Potter Training Tip: Rescue Kit

Rescue Kit

by Janeen Sharpe

How many of you carry your own rescue kit in your cars? I do. My sister started me on it many years ago. I’ve not really had to use it, but I nearly did earlier this month. I was driving on a busy road when I saw a stray dog cross the street. Luckily, drivers in many other cars saw her too. As a matter of fact, four cars pulled off the road and the drivers tried to capture the stray. It was a wonderful sight.

I always carry a first aid kit in my car, along with blankets, collapsible water bowl, and a leash. That day I did not need to use any of it, because one of the other drivers rescued the stray and was able to give her to her owner. But the situation made me think. This stray had a collar, was easy to grab, and was friendly; but other strays aren’t always captured that easily. Was I prepared to help?

I found some suggestions to be better prepared. Now I keep these items in my car:

●        a phone to look up emergency vet clinics if needed

●        a cardboard box to serve as a cat carrier

●        a strong leash for dogs, preferably a slip leash that can also serve as a collar

●        blankets, gloves, water bowls, and of course water

●        some “smelly” pet food, like canned tuna or dried liver treats

●        an easily accessible animal first-aid kit

When you see an animal running loose, keep in mind the safety of the dog, your own safety and the safety of others. Then proceed with caution. A frightened or injured animal is unpredictable. If you succeed in getting close enough to capture a stray, there is a chance of being scratched or bitten, so those blankets or heavy gloves may help you protect yourself.

Or, perhaps all you can do is sit safely in your car and call animal control to help.

If you decide it’s safe to move towards an animal, speak calmly and try enticing them to come to you with food. In one case, I opened my car’s back door and called to an escaped dog. He came running and jumped into my car! He was then inside and I was safely outside. The rescue group -- who he had just escaped from -- was very grateful for his quick capture.

Another time, a very loving small pup who had escaped his home was in a dangerous situation near a busy intersection. A neighbor easily captured him and brought him to me. I had my ex-pen set up and he spent the night here. In the morning, I called the city to see if we could identify the owner from his dog tags. We could. And it turns out that this wasn’t his first time escaping from his backyard.

My most unforgettable memory is of a day on a Detroit expressway. The traffic was very heavy, and a pitbull was strolling along the inside median. Much to my regret, it was too dangerous to stop because I would have caused an accident. I have never forgotten him.

The name game: Three ways to teach your dog its name

By Elizabeth B.

It seems like everyone I know has adopted a new dog this winter, whether that’s a puppy or a rescue. For many, this means going through the joys of puppy-proofing, housebreaking, leash training—and even teaching the dog its new name.

Fortunately, there are several name games you can play with your dog to help a new name sink in super quick. (And they’re more effective than merely sing-songing the name until the dog happens to catch on). You can play the first one by yourself to lay the foundation. Then you’ll need help from family and friends for the other two.

By yourself

The idea here is to give your dog a choice. You say the name only once, and then they choose to look at you or not. If they make the right choice, they get a treat. How it works:

• Say your dog’s name—once—in a bright, friendly voice. 
• If they look over at you, praise them and give them a high-value treat.
• If they don’t, ignore them for a while, then try again.
• Wait until they’re no longer looking at you, then call them again. Praise and treat. 
• Repeat several times a day over several days until they’ve got it down pat. 
• Also, make sure to try this out in all sorts of settings, indoors and out. And even challenge your dog by calling their name when there are distractions, like a passing car or a squirrel. 

With a partner 

This was the game I used to help my cairn terrier, True, learn his name in about 10 minutes. For this one, you’ll need the help of another person. How it works:

• Have two people stand a few feet apart, either inside or out. 
•  Have the first person call the dog in a bright-friendly voice. 
• If they trot over to you, give them praise and a high-value treat. If they do nothing, don’t repeat the name. Just wait 10 seconds and try again. 
• Have the second person call the dog. Praise and treat. 
• After you’ve gone through a few cycles of this, step back to increase the distance. 

In a group 

After your dog is starting to get a grasp on their name, it’s time to widen the circle so they get comfortable with other people saying their name, too. This is a great game to trot out at parties, as friends and family tend to enjoy it. It makes for a great icebreaker and a chance for other people to bond with your new dog. How it works:

• Have friends or family stand or sit in a loose circle. Give everyone a few of your dog’s treats to hold. 
• Go first and call your dog’s name. 
• When they come to you, praise them and give them a treat. 
• Have someone else in the circle call the dog, ideally when the dog isn’t looking at them. Again, praise and treat. 
• If the dog doesn’t immediately go to person who calls, don’t repeat the name. Just wait and try again in 5-10 seconds. Eventually, they’ll start to catch on that they don’t get the treat until they go to the person who calls, the first time. 
• Repeat until everyone’s had a chance to call the dog. 

You can also mix things up by asking friends and family to hold on to a treat or two and call the dog randomly at any point during your gathering. This helps keep the dog on their toes.

Now if only there were some quick tricks like this to housetrain a dog!

Col. Potter Training Tip: ItsYerChoice

By Elizabeth B.

Here's a game your dog can pick up pretty quick. It's called It'sYerChoice, and it's a fun way to train your dog without it really feeling like work.

I learned this game when I started taking my cairn terrier, True, to agility training when he was 4 months old. Each week, we drove out to a local trainer who herself had trained under dog agility guru Susan Garrett.

Susan has quite a few agility championships under her belt—despite the fact that she doesn't really believe in training dogs, per se. She believes in playing with them. And the most basic game she teaches is ItsYerChoice.

How it works: You offer your dog a treat. But you don't give it to them until they choose to wait patiently for it, rather than pounce. And yet can get them to do this without even saying a word.

Let's take it step by step:

1. Grab a few of your dog's favorite treats, ideally ones they don't get every day. (For True, I started with nibbles of cheese.)
2. Sit or stand near your dog, in a place where there aren't a lot of distractions.
3. Close your fist around the treats and offer it to your dog. Keep your palm up so you can open up when it's time.
4. Let your dog nose, sniff, lick, or nibble at your closed hand. But DON'T open up to give them the treats.
5. Wait until your dog calms down and backs off. They might choose to sit, lie down, or just stand and wait patiently. True usually sits because he knows sitting gets him a treat.
6. If your dog is pretty insistent and really goes at your hand, pull away and out of reach, so they know they're not getting the treats. Then start over.
7. The moment your dog is calm and has stopped trying to get the treats, THAT'S when you open up and let them chow down.

Lesson learned: "If I pounce, I don't get the treat. But if I'm patient and calm, I do!"

It took my True only a day or two to master this game when he was a puppy. But it's had a profound effect on our lives for the past two years. Because now when he wants something, he chooses to sit and wait rather than paw or pounce. What a lovely little gentleman.

For more about ItsYerChoice, see Why Choice is the Critical Key to a Great Dog.

How True tells me he's hungry

Col. Potter Training Tip: The eyes are the window to the soul

I hope you’ll excuse me for ranting today. I am befuddled, confounded, and just plain angry at people who use pain to force a dog to “behave.” I’m even angrier at the trainers and pet product manufacturers who tell people that pain is a legitimate tool in dog training. If you look into the eyes of dogs subjected to pain, you’ll see a dog who wants desperately to connect with you – if her look can meet your eyes at all.

I am a dog walker and, let me tell you, there are some untrained and rambunctious pups out there. And that’s okay. I can work with that. What I cannot work with is people who expect me to use a prong collar when walking their beautiful dog. I’ll meet my obligation to provide the walk I’ve agreed to, but I’ll not accept another assignment with that client – UNLESS the client is willing to forego the pain and will learn to build a positive relationship with their dog.

Last week, I walked into a client’s home and saw a prong collar hanging next to the leash, waiting for my walk. Since the client didn’t specifically direct me to use that collar, I decided to spend some time developing a positive relationship before going on our walk. That dog was so ready for a human connection!

I couldn't put this prong collar on the dog I was obligated to walk.

Making that connection doesn’t require fancy equipment or special experience, as trainer Pat Miller points out in her article, “It’s All in Your Dog’s Eyes: How to get your dog to look at you, and why it yields better training results,” in Whole Dog Journal.

“Sit on a chair with your dog in front of you, leashed if necessary, and wait. The instant he looks at you, or near you, click (or use your verbal marker) and feed a high-value treat,” Pat explains. “You’re reinforcing offered attention – teaching your dog that if he chooses to look at you, he can make you click.”

Sandy T. discovered the value of eye contact when she fostered and adopted cairn terrier Oscar.

“Oscar was reactive to any sounds outside – cars, trucks, bikes, lawn mowers, people talking, dog's barking – and walking him was a nightmare,” Sandy says. “He would lunge and bark at every car and, since there are no sidewalks where I walk my dogs, it was darn scary!”

“I spent a couple of weeks teaching him to look at me when I said ‘look here.’ Once he would reliably look me in the eye when I said it inside, I moved to the yard and worked with him in the yard, getting him to pay attention to me instead of the car or bike that just went by. We then moved to walking and I used the same concept. Within a month, I could walk him without any reactions to cars, trucks, dogs in yards barking at us, etc.”

“I am using the same protocol for my Monty now as he just cannot help himself, he has to react to the dogs in yards barking at us,” she says. “All 16 pounds of him wants to take on that pit bull mix barking at us through the fence! LOL. He is making progress but he is not very food-motivated, so I’m still trying to come up with something that will keep his attention on my eyes instead of the other dog.”

I’ve found that pups will understand the eye contact even without words. I let the dog see that I put a treat in both hands, and then I hold my arms up at my sides, level with my shoulders. The dog will look at the hands holding the treats, but will eventually give your eyes a quick glance. When she does that, I immediately mark the eye contact with “yes!” and give the dog one of the treats. Then the arms go up again. As we progress, the dog will eventually understand that she gets a treat when she looks in my eyes. And then, while the concept is still fresh in her mind, we’ll go for a walk and she’ll get a treat every time she turns her head to “check in” with me.

Encouraging this dog to look into my eyes, instead of using a prong collar, made for a much happier walk with lots of check-ins. 

The eye contact protocol isn’t for everyone, although it worked with my Westie pup Peaches.

Making contact with these darling eyes is pure joy!

I also made the eye connection with my collie boy Nemo, but he decided he liked to check in so much that I have to remind him to look forward during our walks! And collie girl Rosie, who was severely reactive, is still a little too hyper during the walk to look into my eyes or accept a treat; however, she will gladly take her treats at the end of the walk when she can relax and look into my eyes.

Miller points out that teaching eye contact has a fulfilling aspect beyond training. When a dog learns to look into our eyes, he has the ability to communicate with us.

“As behavior science continues to explore and acknowledge the cognitive capabilities of our canine companions, we are realizing that our dogs may possess ‘theory of mind,’” Miller explains.

“Theory of mind... is the ability to attribute mental states – beliefs, intents, desires, pretending, knowledge, etc. – to oneself and others, and to understand that others have beliefs, desires, intentions, and perspectives that are different from one’s own.”

There’s a lot we have yet to learn about our dogs’ cognitive abilities. But, in the meantime, we KNOW that our pups will benefit from a closer relationship and better communication with us. And it starts with the eyes.

❣❣❣

Col. Potter Training Tips: Home for the holidays

This week, in anticipation of Thanksgiving, we are posting our training tips column a couple days early. Many thanks to Debra Ekman at Your Dog’s Friend for allowing us to reprint her tips for staying at home:

Let’s face it, Thanksgiving is almost here. It’s too late to train your dog before Aunt Mabel arrives. Even if you have trained your dog, the holidays present a whole new set of challenges. Your dog is excited (or stressed). You are excited (or stressed) and have less time for your dog. There are all sorts of distractions (including food). Be patient. This too shall pass.

• Your dog may be excited when guests first arrive. When the doorbell rings, we rush to the door, talk with enthusiasm, hug. Obviously, the doorbell means that something exciting is happening. Before your guests are due to arrive, put your dog in another room or crate with a safe toy or stuffed Kong. Once your friends and relatives are in and settled, you can bring your dog out to greet everyone. 
• Your dog should be on leash when greeting your guests. This will help keep your dog from jumping and running around. It's is more pleasant for your dog than being yelled at for saying "hello" the way that dogs say "hello."
• Don’t assume that everyone likes dogs (even yours). Be sure to ask your guests if they're afraid of or allergic to dogs ahead of time. It's not fair to your dog or your guests if you allow your dog around people who aren't comfortable around dogs. Your guests will feel uneasy all night, and your dog will get in trouble for simply being himself around the wrong person.
• If you have a timid, anxious or reactive dog, don't force him to be part of the activities. It's best to allow your dog to spend "guest time" in his crate or in a separate room with the door shut and something super yummy to chew. Be sure to do this at random times for weeks ahead and then before your guests arrive. Your dog would rather be in a safe place than around all those “scary” people.
• Teach your guests, both adults and children, how to interact with your dog. It's a hectic time; so, if your dog joins your guests, either you or someone else responsible should have your dog's leash and keep your dog feeling safe. When people approach dogs head-on, look them directly in the eye, reach over them, pat them on the head, or lean over them, dogs feel threatened. So, ask your guests to angle sideways and pet your dog under his chin or on his chest. If your dog looks away or backs up, respect your dog’s wishes. He is not comfortable and would rather not meet and greet. 
• Being around young children is stressful for most dogs. Kids have high-pitched voices, move quickly and are unpredictable. Don’t let children crowd your dog, chase him, pick him up, hug him or get their face in your dog’s face. Let your dog go somewhere safe, where he won’t be bothered by children’s antics. Even a good dog will bite when he has had enough.
• If you have a small dog, don’t hold him when people approach. Small dogs may feel trapped and become growly if held during greetings. 
• Ask your guests NOT to feed your dog. The emergency vet offices are full during the holidays with dogs that have had too much "holiday cheer". Well-meaning friends may not know that raisins are bad for dogs or that macadamia nuts (think cookies) could kill your dog. Instead, have some of your dog's healthy treats around for your guests to offer your dog.

If your dog ate something he shouldn't have, call ASPCA 24-hour poison control for advice: 888-426-4435

• If you don’t want your dog to eat off the kitchen counter or beg at the dinner table, keep him out of those rooms. Put up a baby gate, or put your dog in a crate or room with a special treat – like a Kong stuffed with goodies or an interactive toy that will drop kibble if moved the right way. Don’t feel guilty:  Your dog will get plenty later when he helps you clean up by eating all the crumbs.
• Don’t tempt fate. Even the most well-behaved dog will be tempted to commit "a crime of opportunity". If you're planning to leave your dishes out, so you can watch the game or move to another room for dessert and coffee, make sure your dog comes (and stays) with you. If your dog does get something such as a turkey bone, offer your dog something yummy in exchange, instead of trying to reach into his mouth to get it.
• WATCH THOSE DOORS! Just as you should have your dog in another room/in a crate/on leash when your guests arrive, you need to do the same when your guests are leaving. People will be hugging, getting their leftovers to take home, and putting their coats on. No one will be paying attention to how wide the front door is held open or for how long. It only takes a second for your dog to bolt out that door or to follow a guest out and keep going!
• Prepare ahead. Around the holidays, more pets get lost or sick than usual. It's hectic, and you may not be closely watching your dog. Get your dog microchipped NOW and register the number. For a membership fee of $20/year, you can join Home Again, a site that provides lost pet registration for any brand microchip; rapid lost pet alerts; and a pet medical emergency hotline. Want to help others with lost pets? Think about joining Home Again's lost pet network as a volunteer pet rescuer, and ask your vet and local shelter to join the network too!
• When visiting a relative or friend on Thanksgiving, it's a good idea to leave your dog safely at home. Everyone is preoccupied, there are lots of people, a TV is blaring, and food, some dangerous to dogs, are there for the taking. If another dog lives there, don't expect him to welcome your dog with open arms either, especially with so much food around. If you must bring your dog, take a folding crate, a familiar dog mat, and chew toys. Help your dog stay out of trouble, and enjoy yourself!

 All of us at Col. Potter Cairn Rescue Network send best wishes for a happy and safe Thanksgiving!

Col. Potter Training Tip: Great ideas for repurposing

Have you noticed that you are paying more for your dog’s care than for your own? I love getting catalogs and emails showing the latest pet products, but holy moly this stuff is getting expensive! If you are tired of dishing out the dough, join me in discovering how to repurpose* items to cut down on costs while keeping your pup healthy and happy. (*definition: repurpose: to use something for a different purpose than the one that was originally intended.)

If you’re like me, you’ve amassed dozens (hundreds?) of dog toys. It’s time to call a halt to the madness. My friend Terri shared her fun idea: “I save all my cardboard product containers and fill up a grocery store paper bag. I put a treat in each recyclable box, pack the boxes back in the bag, and then let the dogs go at them!” What great mayhem! My pup Peaches thanks you, Terri!

Peaches' new favorite game is tearing apart recyclable boxes, looking for treats.

Or try Janet’s way to beat the high cost of noisy toys: “Our puppy likes to play with empty water bottles. We remove the cap, the plastic ring and the label, and he carries them around the house crunching them lol.”

Marianne has an alternative to those expensive beginner’s puzzles: “An old muffin tin and tennis balls can be used as a puzzle (with a treat under one tennis ball, or ALL the tennis balls).”

And about those treats… There’s nothing better than homemade, but we need to avoid handing out Oreo-sized dog cookies, especially if games are going to last a while. The blog “Eileen and Dogs” has a great idea for repurposing a silicone mold so you can easily make 500 tiny treats!

My senior collie rescue, Eddie, is finding it difficult to make the 5-inch step from my back porch to my kitchen. I searched all the dog product sites, looking for a ramp. My goodness, those dog ramps are expensive -- and not entirely secure for a big, elderly dog. Instead, I found an industrial ramp that movers use at curbside. This heavy-duty rubber ramp costs much less than the pet products, and after a few tentative tries Eddie can now walk into the house like the dignified gentleman he is.

Deb shared her repurposing idea for helping her senior dogs into the car. “I repurposed my mounting block from horseback riding so Emily could get on the bed and into the car. Even better, Gail discovered the value of applying non-slip tape to it. It was the best idea ever. P.S., I’m not promoting this as a dog chew toy, LOL.”

Deb's smooth collie Maple loves the mounting block!

So, what are some of your repurposing successes? Post them in the comment section, or send them to us at cpcrnblog@gmail.com. We’d love to share more ideas!

Col. Potter Training Tip: Do your best and your dog will love you

We all try to do what’s best for our dogs. But sometimes it is hard to know what is “best.” And best for who? Thankfully, our dogs forgive us as we mere humans try to understand and fulfill their needs.

I recently thought my little Peaches would love giving Li'l Punkin (a Col. Potter cairn terrier puppy) a temporary place to stay while he waited for his real foster home. I thought she would benefit from some socialization with another terrier. Well, that didn’t work out – for me. Peaches and foster Li’l Punkin had a wonderful time, but I was having angina!

As you recall, Peaches has subaortic stenosis. The severity of SAS is measured by gradients, from 16 (mild) to 80 (severe); Peaches’ gradient two months ago was 236. (The cardiac vet will re-examine her and re-measure the gradient again at the end of this month.) Anyway, Peaches has to avoid sudden excitement, so I thought playing with a terrier who was closer to her size and her play style, rather than with her 4-year-old 70-pound male collie companion, would be good for her.

Peaches plays with collie Nemo every morning, but I thought she'd enjoy playing with a terrier instead.

Dear me, I forgot about puppy play! I didn’t remember how quickly puppy play can escalate into a noisy and scary argument. One of the pups must have nipped the other, or took a toy, or heaven knows what, but their loud argument set me running. After I gave the pups a 60-second timeout, they went back to gentle play, but I reached for my nitroglycerin tablets.

Peaches and Li'l Punkin played gently – most of the time.

I let the Col. Potter intake coordinator know of my fears about Peaches getting too excited, and she immediately found a new “bed & breakfast” home for Li’l Punkin while he waited to join his foster family. Because that’s what CPCRN does: they do everything they can to find the best situation for their dogs, their foster families, and their adopters.

I love that about CPCRN, and I love when I see it with my friends, too.

One friend has a long and successful history of raising and training dogs for competition. She gives her dogs all they need to succeed, and they thrive under her care. It has become increasingly obvious, however, that one of her dogs simply does not enjoy her time in the ring. My friend's dog is much happier with a long trek on the walking trails. So, despite pouring all the training hours and all the money into competition, my friend decided to let her dog decide her own “career” and took her out of the ring. I think that’s one of the most loving gestures an owner can make.

I once wanted to see if Nemo (the aforementioned 4-year-old collie) liked agility. We took an Intro to Agility class, and he loved it!!! He learned so fast, and he was fearless on the equipment. He mastered the tunnel, he loved the see-saw, and he was progressing on jumps. He especially liked to scale the 6-foot-tall a-frame. In fact, he enjoyed it so much, and was so proud of his accomplishment, that when he got to the top he turned around to find me, to get my approval. When he turned, he lost his footing – and he came crashing down to the floor, falling on his shoulder. My heart stopped.

Nemo is a confident goofball (shown here carrying a roll of tape, for some unknown reason)

Nemo was fine. I never recovered. From then on, I couldn’t get over my fears about agility. So I am gradually buying equipment for a backyard obstacle course – minus the a-frame – and hopefully Nemo will forgive me for blocking what would have undoubtedly been a stellar career overflowing with blue ribbons.

But that’s the point. If we all had unlimited money, time, courage, and insights we would create utopias for our dogs. As it is, however, we have to be happy with giving our dog the best life we can, under the circumstances. Like my friend paying attention to her dog’s happiness (or lack thereof) in the competition ring, like trying to give Nemo the activities he enjoys without giving myself a nervous breakdown, or like CPCRN working with a myriad of unknowns while trying to give every dog the best chance for a good life… Just do your best, and your dog will see you as the awesome, quirky, flawed and beautiful person you are.

❣❣❣ 

Col. Potter Training Tip: A secret to a stress-free vet visit

This is going to be a very short post today. It’s just been one of those weeks, with multiple vet visits on top of everything. One dog needed a vet recheck on his ear infection, another needed vaccinations, another needed her teeth cleaned… although the one with severe health problems – Peaches – didn’t need anything from the vet this week, bless her little defective heart.

Peaches models the latest in purple bandages
(not from this week, thank goodness!!)

Trips to the vet can be challenges, even for routine appointments. We have to remember that our dogs take their cues from us, and if we’re nervous – pulling tight on the leash, moaning about “my poor baby,” or being argumentative with the receptionist or medical team – the dog is going to have a rough go of it.

I recently learned of one dog who, his owner told me, screamed when he got a shot. I happened to see the vet’s notes on the visit, and the vet reported that they started to give a vaccination, but the owner was “extremely anxious” – so they took the dog to the procedures room and did the vaccination there, out of the owner’s sight. Today I took that same dog to the vet for follow up vaccines and he didn’t have any problems whatsoever. In fact, the vet tech was effusive in praising the dog’s terrific temperament!

So what made the difference? We were happy about going for a ride. The vet staff (and even other dog owners) oohed and aahed about the darling pup, giving him cuddles and positive attention. And treats. Lots and lots of treats! What a good boy with the thermometer in your butt! Two treats. Here pup, mom has treats for you, look at mom (while the vet gives the shot). Yes! You are such a good boy!! Treat jackpot!

You get the idea. It is no secret that vet trips are a time to splurge with the treats and gush with praise. And that goes for you, too. It might be a stressful time for you, as you worry about a test, a diagnosis, or the bill, but you're doing a great job! Good mom, good dad! Now, go get yourself a treat.

Col. Potter Training Tip: Let's (not) make a deal

Remind me again that we have to learn from our mistakes…

Puppy Peaches (now about 11 months old) loves to steal shoes! And my remote control. And my cell phone. And pencils and pens. Of course, I need to manage my stuff better so she doesn’t have the opportunity to grab it, but she is so quick. I constantly find new failures at “puppy proofing” my house.

How do I get my stuff back from Peaches after she grabs it? All the trainers warn you not to chase the dog (since they think “keep away” is a great game) so I thought I found the perfect solution: I would trade, a treat for the shoe!

It's so much fun to steal stuff like mom's rain shoe.

Trading worked perfectly at first. Peaches would run off with my shoe and I’d announce loudly, “trade ya!” and she would bring it back to me and drop it, awaiting her treat. I would congratulate myself on my brilliant solution as I gave Peaches her bit of cookie. But these terriers are smart. Too smart. Peaches quickly learned that the most reliable way to get a cookie is to steal something and keep it until she hears me say “trade ya!” She has turned into a regular kleptomaniac.

It's time to call in the professionals…

“When [the puppy] has an item that you must get back right away, use a distraction to get her to drop it on her own. Rattle the treat bag, go get her leash, or begin playing with a ball by yourself. Pretend that you don’t even notice there is a dog around, but that you just happen to be doing something terrific without her. Be fascinating; catch her attention in some way that entices her to come see what you’re up to. If what you are doing is appealing enough, she will either drop her ‘prize’ somewhere on her way over to you, or come over with the stolen item in her mouth. Once she comes over to get in the game, ask her to ‘sit.’ If needed, you can put a piece of food near her nose to encourage her to drop her prize, saying ‘drop it’ as she opens her mouth to get the treat. But don’t give her the food right away, make her work for it. Ask her to sit or down a few times, so she doesn’t think you are rewarding her for stealing [my emphasis].”

The Puppy Primer, Second Edition, by Patricia B. McConnell and Brenda Scidmore

“...[R]ewarding her for stealing.” That is exactly what I’ve been doing.

Okay, Miss Peaches, the game is over, the jig is up... no more deals! Now, where is my cell phone...???

Col. Potter training tip: The nose knows

“What do dogs have that we don't? For one thing, they possess up to 300 million olfactory receptors in their noses, compared to about six million in us. And the part of a dog's brain that is devoted to analyzing smells is, proportionally speaking, 40 times greater than ours.”

Peter Tyson, Dogs' Dazzling Sense of Smell

Since a dog's nose is tens of thousands of times as sensitive to odors as ours, it shouldn’t be surprising that our dogs may not appreciate the chemical air fresheners or even essential oil and candle fragrances we use in our homes. This may be a health issue for asthmatic dogs, but for most of our canine pals it can simply be an issue of preference. Do you want to force your dog, whose sense of smell may be up to 100,000 times as acute as yours, to live with a holiday pine scent if it interferes with the normal everyday scents (of you, for instance)? And what if he just doesn’t like the smell of pines? Would you even know?

Let’s try a little test. Remove the air fresheners, essential oil diffusers, scented candles, and other fragrances from all the rooms in your house. Give your air a chance to clear. And then add the fragrance dispenser in one room, and see if your dog avoids that room or nestles in it. That should give you some indication of your dog’s preferences.

My Westie, Peaches, even sniffs the concrete Pan during her morning garden strolls.

The scent issue also includes our cleaning supplies. I recently got a question from a friend who wondered why her dogs’ “rituals” changed.

“Syd and Logan eat at 4:30, then I eat and they just hang. I then share a chocolate chip cookie with them for my dessert. Syd then falls asleep and Logan lays near the window and looks out. This has been our ritual for 5 years. Now, after chocolate chip cookie time, Logan goes upstairs, lays on the futon. Been going on for 2 weeks. ??????”

I thought this was an interesting conundrum. “Does Logan seem sad, or is he matter-of-fact about it?” I asked. “Did something change outside to make it less interesting? Or, HAVE YOU CLEANED YOUR WINDOWS? (My door window is so smeared with dog stuff that it's impossible to see out, LOL!)”

My friend realized that she changed her window cleaning product two weeks prior, the same time Logan changed his ritual. She had cleaned that window, but not the window upstairs by the futon. She has now changed back to the original cleaner, but Logan has evidently decided he likes the futon, regardless. Was Logan talking with his feet, telling my friend that he didn't like the new smell?

“For humans, smell is a second-tier sense that we use to enjoy food and horribly artificial air fresheners. For a dog, smell is the dominant sense – it rules their world in a way we humans and our puny olfactory abilities simply can’t comprehend.”

Mat Job, The Smell Test: Why Dogs Sniff Butts

Col. Potter Training Tips: Resource Guarding

Resource Guarding is a natural instinct, brought on by anxiety, especially in a dog who is under-confident about other things in his life.  The very best course of action is to avoid situations that threaten the dog and its possessions.  Allow your dog to chew in peace when appropriate and never try and take the toy away except as part of a positive exchange.

Resource Guarding

What is resource guarding?

Resource guarding (RG) is when a dog has possession of an object that he/she thinks is valuable, and is growling/snapping/biting in an effort to protect/keep that object.  

The object may be something we deem silly, for example, a piece of Kleenex is a common object dogs guard...or even empty bowls.  Some dogs will even guard spots, like a bed or couch.  And in few, rarer cases dogs will see their owner is a resource and guard that person.

 
Why does my dog do this?

Generally speaking, RG is a genetic, inborn behavior.  This behavior evolved because in the wild, possession of something is important, and not allowing that thing to be stolen is a matter of life and death.  Many dogs retain this behavior, despite there being ample resources.  Just like hunting, playing, and mating, RG is a survival skill built into the dog.

In some cases, RG can be learned.  This happens most often when a bored dog starts to chew objects.  The owner approaches and removes the object, often times scolding the dog.  Unfortunately, this only teaches the dog to steal/chew objects out of the owner’s sight to avoid punishment, and/OR it will teach him that he needs to protect the object from the owner, as he sees the owner as a thief.

 
Things like anxiety, being in a new home, or the addition of another dog or pet can increase these behaviors, or cause them to appear seemingly spontaneously.  Dogs that are under-confident in other aspects of their lives tend to be guarders.

This puppy is at the first level of warning, freezing in place and giving a hard stare, his paw on his toy, because his Alpha sister is standing right there, ready to jump in and grab his special toy.  Know the signs so you can avoid trouble!  The timely distraction of a training session, with “sits” and “downs” and great treats, avoided further escalation in this case.

What’s with all the biting, snapping, growling?

These behaviors are part of the dogs hierarchy of warnings.  The warnings play out like this:

• Freezing in place/hard staring

• Placing face against the object, putting more paws on the object

• Lip lifting

• Growling

• Warning/air snapping (these will not make contact)

• Warning snaps with contact (does not break skin)

• Biting that breaks skin

• Full attack fight that must be broken up.

Generally speaking, most dogs will travel up the hierarchy, over time, giving stronger and stronger warnings, until they finally end up biting or attacking.  Now, how hard the dog bites, depends on his learned bite inhibition.  Bite inhibition is learned as a puppy from littermates, and from his owners when he comes home.  If a dog has good bite inhibition, he will be very restrained in his bites, if he has poor control, he may bite very hard, and sooner than a dog with better control.

Some dogs go up this hierarchy, gradually, over time.  For example a dog being pestered by another dog while he eats may progress over weeks or months until they finally fight, but other dogs may go up the warning hierarchy VERY quickly - so quickly that they run through all the signals in a blink of an eye.  These are the types of dogs that many people site as “biting without warning".  What actually is happening is perhaps the owner did not see the signals, or chose to ignore or punish the lower level signals.

The point being, dogs do not want to attack over their object, they want to do everything possible to keep their object, but without causing harm, this is ritualized aggression.  Its when the issue is pushed (for example a human that continues to take objects away despite warnings, or another dog that continues to bully the RG) the dog's behavior can, and usually does, escalate.

 
Should I use corrections to stop this?

Isn't my dog trying to dominant me?

Dogs that RG are not trying to climb a social ladder, or overthrow the humans as the "leader".  In fact, these are the dogs in the household with confidence or anxiety issues. These are dogs that are, in a sense, "paranoid" that everyone is out to get their "valued thing".  Confident dogs do not feel the need to RG most objects, as they are positive no one is even going to try to take their stuff.

 
However, most "normal" dogs, with average to high confidence, may guard something of very high value - like a piece of raw meat, a new toy, etc. - when the dog doesn't normally get to have those things.  It is the abnormally high value of the object that elicits the behavior.

 
Strangers can also create the behavior.  A dog that would never RG from the family may snap at a guest, the anxiety from not knowing the person as well triggers the behavior.  Or, in the case of a party or gathering at the house, the dog may simply be over-stimulated.

Corrections for this behavior, such as yelling at the dog, making hissing sounds, physically punishing the dog, poking him, or removing the object as punishment are all methods with a very high likelihood of backfiring, plus making the behavior worse.  Since this is often anxiety based, punishment will only increase anxiety, and also damage your relationship with your dog.  It puts you two in conflict every time he finds an object he likes.

What should I do first?

First, we want to manage (prevent) the behavior as much as possible.  Pick up your clothes and things, remove dog toys and treats from the floor, moving and covering trashcans, and so forth.  Use x-pens and baby gates to keep your dog out of areas where he is going to find objects to guard.

 
The reason this is so important is that every time the dog practices the behavior, it is becoming more and more ingrained.  Preventing it helps keep the dog at the level he/she is already at, while you implement training.  If the dog guards food/food bowls, feed him separately from other dogs, preferably in his own room or crate.

 
For dogs that guard food bowls/food management:

 
If the dog is being aggressive with humans, one of the best things you can start is hand-feeding ALL meals.  Many dogs do not make the connection that food comes from YOU, and instead think it magically appears in their magic bowl (hence guarding an empty bowl).

 
Couch/bed guarding management:

Attaching a short leash to help guide the dog off the spot will work in an emergency, but placing cardboard boxes or other objects on the surface that discourage usage is preferred.  Also remember to close doors or use baby gates to keep the dog away from the surface they guard.

Make sure to discuss the management plan with all family members so that everyone is on board and there is a better chance of success.

Ok, so I am preventing the behavior, can I start training now?

Yes, but first...

All this training advice is meant as a guideline.  Different dogs will progress at different rates due to temperament, history, environment, handler skill, and so forth.  It is very important to understand that RG takes a decent amount of time to "fix" with most dogs, and the training will have to be repeated, from the beginning, with all other family members to ensure the dog has generalized the behavior.  Patience is key.

Also, if your dog is breaking skin, you are otherwise afraid or intimidated by your dog, or you in any way feel you may be harmed (dog size is a factor to consider), then its time to hire a professional to help you.  Keep in mind, most trainers are not experienced in aggression cases and will not take them on.  Also be aware that many of the trainers that agree to take on aggression cases may not be truly qualified to do so.  Your best bet is to select your trainer very wisely or hire a good behaviorist, in either case, one who understands and practices Relationship Based Training.

Read About Relationship Based Training Tips from Suzanne Clothier:

http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

Watch a Great Video about Relationship Based Training Tips by Zak George:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33mLzcOU5wM

Col. Potter Training Tips: Look at Me!

Written by a CP Volunteer

Teaching "Look at me!" is easy, essential, and Forever!

So you find yourself trying over and over again to get your stubborn Cairn to listen to whatever command or instruction you're attempting to give him or her.  And your voice gets louder and louder each time you repeat, with increasing urgency, your futile attempts to get him to respond.  Does this sound familiar?

"Buffy... Sit! ...Sit!  Buffy.. SIT! ...SIT ..SIT ...SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT SIT!!!!!!!!!"  And there he stands, oblivious to your demands.  What's wrong with him anyhow?  Is he deaf?

No, let me assure you his hearing is great.  In fact, Cairns' hearing is incredibily acute.  He hears you alright.  But he isn't listening to you at all!  Why?  Because there's nothing in it for him to do so, and because, well, because he's a Cairn Terrier, with all the stubborn, independent, mischievous attitude that implies.

So what can you do?  How do you get them to listen to you so that you can get them to do what you want, and sometimes absolutely need them to do?  I've found a very effective technique, that is very simple to teach.  It's the "Look At Me!" command.

OK, we're looking!  What's next?

You see, before you can get most Cairns to do what you want them to do, you have to get their undivided attention.  Not an easy task, as we all know how easily distracted they are and how focused they can become on heaven knows what...but certainly not on us.  The "Look At Me!" command is what I like to call an "interim command," in that its purpose is to redirect their attention from whatever they are focusing on in preparation for whatever follow-up command you want to issue to them.  It can also serve as a very powerful "luring" technique (more about that later).  What the "Look At Me!" command does is gets Buffy to, as its name states, LOOK at you.  That's half the battle with a Cairn Terrier.  And it's one you can win easily, I assure you.

Here's how to teach this simple, and very effective, command:

• Gather some "high value" treats (small bits of cheese, freeze dried liver, etc., something the dog LOVES that you reserve for training).  Have them readily available in your pocket or the palm of your hand. Pick a quiet time, where there are no distractions and get Buffy to SIT.

• Once he's sitting, place the treat between your thumb and index finger, so a portion of it is showing, but the majority of it is firmly grasped between your fingers.

• Stand up reasonably straight, with just a slight bend at the waist (do NOT bend down at the knees, you don't want to be on his level)

• Place your fingers (with the treat, of course!) just beyond the tip of his nose and draw it STRAIGHT up to the tip of your nose from his.  As you do so, say, in a firm and deep voice, "Buffy LOOK at ME!"  (emphasis on the LOOK and ME).  [A small aside here, females make the mistake of issuing commands to dogs in a high sing-song voice rather than a DEEP authoritative one.  Become accustomed to giving commands in a LOW, deep voice...imagine your voice if you were a male.  It's far more effective than our higher pitched voices.  Also, if you reserve that voice register for commands, it sounds different to the Cairn and will arouse his curiousity if nothing else!]

• Because you've drawn the treat (which Buffy wants desperately) directly from his nose to yours, by necessity, his eyes will follow the treat toward your face.  That's what you want to happen.  As soon as your fingers with the treat touch your nose, and assuming his gaze has followed your fingers, tell him "GOOD BOY!" and give him the treat!

• Do this 3 times in succession, 3 times per day to begin.  A total of 9 repetitions.  Most Cairns will be so eager for the treat that they will begin anticipating the command by looking at your NOSE as soon as you begin to draw the treat from his nose to yours.  THAT'S GREAT!  But remember to say (in your low, deep voice), "Buffy, LOOK at ME!" as you're drawing the treat toward your nose.  When he focuses on it, hold it there at the tip of your nose for a few seconds.  Tell him "GOOD BOY!" and give him the treat.  Your goal is to get him to anticipate the command by following it immediately AND to lengthen the time he focuses on your nose before you treat him.  Ideally, you can hold the treat at the tip of your nose for at least 3 seconds (count, 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000) and he'll focus on your face.  He's looking at you!

Now that he looks at you almost immediately AND he watches you intently for 3 seconds, it's time to begin treating him randomly rather than every single time.  Give him the treat 2 out of 3 times (or 4 out of 5), and gradually reduce the number of times you treat him until you no longer have to SHOW him the treat at all to get him to "LOOK at ME!"  This will take a week or so of work, but believe me, it's worth every single 90 second interval that you do it.   Always POINT at your nose, however, even if you don't have the treat.  It will become sign language to him.

"Look at Me!" is a great portable tool you can take anywhere!

When the command is firmly established in his or her repertoire, you should be able to get him to sit and LOOK at YOU simply by pointing at your nose (if he's already looking in your direction).  And if he isn't, by simply saying the command (in your best low register voice!).

Now, here's how you use this command after it's entrenched.  LOOK at ME! is what I refer to as an "interim" command.  In other words, it should be used as a bridge between a dog's not paying any attention to you whatsoever and the command (or direction or behavior) that you WANT him to perform.  It can be used to calm an overly excited dog.  And, as I indicated earlier, it's a GREAT way to "lure" a Cairn.

What do I mean by "lure" him?  Well, here's a true story.  My Cairn, Max, began exhibiting strong signs of wanting to chase cars at a very early age.  He'd tug and lunge on his leash whenever a car would approach us on our daily walks through the neighborhood.  I tried all the "tried and true" training techniques for breaking a dog's car chasing tendencies.  His obedience trainer instructed me to use the "leash correction" on him.  I did.  It not only didn't stop him, it made it worse.  I tried the alpha roll.  Another dead end.  I tried verbal corrections, again to no avail.  I had friends drive by and pitch coin-filled soda cans out the window as they passed Max and me.  They thought I was crazy, the neighbors were sure of it, and Max was more determined to lunge at the passing cars than ever.  His behavior was escalating rather than diminishing.  Frankly, I was desperate.  So, in the true spirit of desperation, I changed courses entirely.  I decided to change from negative training, which all the other techniques were, to a positive approach.  In other words, I decided, out of sheer desperation, to REWARD good behavior rather than trying to correct/change unwanted behavior.

Keep it positive!  Reward good behavior - Positive training works!

I resorted to the LOOK at ME! command I'd taught him as a very young puppy.  I loaded up with high-value treats and we set out for our walk.  Since we live in a suburban neighborhood with many winding streets, you can hear cars coming before you can see them.  As soon as I'd hear a car approaching, I'd give Max the LOOK at ME! command and I'd move the treat from the tip of my nose to approximately 1/2 way between his nose and mine.  As the car came closer, I'd repeat, "Max, LOOK at ME!" with the treat closer to his nose.  As soon as the car passed, I'd exclaim "GOOD BOY!!!! and would give him the treat immediately.  The trick, I soon learned, was to gain his attention with the "LOOK at ME!" command, hold his attention by showing (luring him with) the treat, then REWARDING him immediately through praise and the treat when he did NOT lunge at the car.  Rather than having him continue to SIT while I was "luring" him with the command and the visible treat, I began really luring him with it as I kept walking while keeping the treat out in front of him.  I kept PRAISING him as he continued to focus on the "lure" of the treat rather than lunging at the car.  And, as before, I'd give him the treat as soon as the car passed us.

To my amazement, it took only about 4 or 5 cars worth of high-value treat luring before I saw how a Cairn mind works!  I heard a car approaching and I immediately gave the "LOOK at ME!" command, with the treat at the ready.  I saw Max quickly look toward the car and then back at the treat... and I could see he'd made his decision.  The treat was worth more to him than was the car.  We were over the hump!  Within 2 or 3 days, Max would immediately LOOK at ME! as soon as he heard a car in the distance.  I began gradually (and randomly) reducing the times I gave him a treat, until, in a few more days, he didn't get treats at all and he was no longer interested in trying to chase cars.  

I have since used the same technique to redirect his desire to lunge at and chase bicyclists and motorcycles.  I also use it to distract him from other dogs while we're out on walks.

Even a rambunctious little boy can learn "Look at me!"

I have taught this command to every one of the 10 Fosters I've had, and they've all learned it quickly and effortlessly.  It's truly a wonderful training technique for your Cairn and can be used for so many things.  I use it all the time when I want to teach him a new behavior, or when I simply want to gain his attention.  Every now and then, when I issue the LOOK at ME! command, I'll surprise him with a treat, just to keep the command interesting to him.

Try it with your Cairn - and Good Luck!

Michele

CRM

2/5/05